Shimonoseki (下関) is a city in Yamaguchi Prefecture at the westernmost tip of Japan's largest island, Honshu. The 650 meter wide Kanmon Strait, a very busy sea lane, separates the city from the island of Kyushu. As the gateway to Kyushu, Shimonoseki has long been a major transportation hub, although the construction of bridges and tunnels across the strait has diminished the city's position somewhat.

Surrounded by water on three sides, Shimonoseki is naturally known for its seafood. Most famous is pufferfish, or fuku as it is locally known. Large numbers of pufferfish pass through the local fish markets everyday and are enjoyed by diners at restaurants across the city.

The Kanmon Strait was the site of two famous battles. In the late 12th century, the deciding battle during the Genpei War - considered Japan's first large-scale civil war - between the Minamoto and Taira samurai families took place at Dannoura in Shimonoseki. The Battle of Dannoura was fought at sea and ended with the Minamoto defeating the Taira and establishing a new government in Kamakura.

Seven centuries later, Shimonoseki was controlled by the Choshu Clan, which played a key role in overthrowing the Tokugawa shogunate in the Meiji Restoration. In the lead-up to the Meiji Restoration, the Choshu forces, infuriated by the inroads made by the Western imperialists and the shogunate's inability to stop them, repeatedly attacked Western ships in the Kanmon Strait, which led to the bombardment of Shimonoseki by Western powers in 1864.

City center

Central Shimonoseki is located near the tip of Honshu and offers a number of attractions, including a pleasant waterfront area with a fish market and an aquarium:

  • Karato Market
    Hours: 5:00 to 15:00 (from 8:00 on Sundays and national holidays)
    Closed: No closing days
    Admission: Free
  • Kaikyokan Aquarium
    Hours: 9:30 to 17:30 (entry until 17:00)
    Closed: No closing days
    Admission: 2090 yen
  • European-style buildings
    Former British Consulate Building:
    Hours: 9:00 to 17:00
    Closed: No closing days
    Admission: Free
  • Kaikyo Yume Tower
    Hours: 9:30 to 21:30 (entry until 21:00)
    Closed: Fourth Saturday in January
    Admission: 600 yen
  • Akama Shrine
    Hours: Always open (treasure hall: 9:00 to 16:30)
    Admission: Free (100 yen for treasure hall)
  • Shunpanro Hall (Sino-Japanese Peace Memorial Hall)
    Hours: 9:00 to 17:00
    Closed: No closing days
    Admission: Free

Kanmon Bridge and surroundings

The Kanmon Bridge is one of the major attractions in Shimonoseki. The suspension bridge has a length of 1068 meters and six car lanes, connecting Honshu to Kyushu across the strait. There are a few sites of interest around the bridge:

  • Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel
    Hours: 6:00 to 22:00
    Closed: No closing days
    Admission: Free for pedestrians, 20 yen for bicycles and mopeds
  • Battle Monuments
    Hours: Always open
    Closed: No closing days
    Admission: Free
  • Hinoyama Park
    Ropeway:
    Hours: 10:00 to 17:00
    Closed: Tuesdays, Wednesdays and from late November to mid March
    Fare: 310 yen (one way) or 520 yen (round trip)

Chofu Town

Chofu is now a district of Shimonoseki City, located about eight kilometers inland from the city center. It is the site of a former castle town of the Mori Clan. The castle was destroyed in 1615 because of a law that allowed only one castle per feudal domain; however some other historical sites are surviving to this date:

  • Chofu Mori Residence
    Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:40)
    Closed: December 28 to January 4
    Admission: 210 yen
  • Kozanji Temple
  • Iminomiya Shrine
  • Chofu Garden
    Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:30)
    Closed: December 28 to January 4
    Admission: 210 yen

Getting there and around

How to get to Shimonoseki

By train from Tokyo/Osaka

Shimonoseki (Shin-Shimonoseki Station), Osaka (Shin-Osaka Station) and Tokyo are connected with each other by the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen. A transfer at Shin-Yamaguchi or Tokuyama to a Kodama train is typically required. The one way journey takes around 5 hours and 21,000 yen from Tokyo, or around 2.5 hours and 14,000 yen from Osaka. Japan Rail Pass holders need to pay a supplement if using the Nozomi, the fastest train category.

By air from Tokyo

JAL, ANA and Starflyer operate several flights per day between Tokyo's Haneda Airport and Yamaguchi-Ube Airport and/or Kitakyushu Airport. Flight duration is about 100 minutes. The regular one way fare is around 40,000 yen, but discount tickets are typically available for 11,000 to 21,000 yen. Airport buses connect Shimonoseki Station to Yamaguchi-Ube Airport (80 minutes, 3000 yen one way) and Kitakyushu Airport (70 minutes, 1000 yen one way).

From Kitakyushu

The one way trip from Kokura Station in Kitakyushu to Shimonoseki by local train takes around 15 minutes and costs 280 yen.

From Fukuoka

A shinkansen ride from Fukuoka (Hakata Station) to Shin-Shimonoseki Station takes 25 minutes and costs around 3500-4000 yen. From Shin-Shimonoseki Station, it is another ten minute local train ride to Shimonoseki Station.

Alternatively, it is possible to travel by train with a transfer at Kokura Station. If using a shinkansen between Hakata and Kokura, the one way journey takes around 45 minutes and costs about 2500 yen (in case of non-reserved seats). If using a limited express, the journey takes around one hour and costs about 2000 yen one way. And if the journey is done entirely by local trains, it takes around 100 minutes and costs 1500 yen one way.

How to get around Shimonoseki

Shimonoseki has two main train stations: Shimonoseki Station in the city center, which is served by local trains, and Shin-Shimonoseki Station, which is served by Kodama trains along the Sanyo Shinkansen. Shin-Shimonoseki Station can be reached in a 10 minute ride from Shimonoseki Station by local train.

Good walkers can explore the sights in city center on foot. The aquarium and market are about two kilometers from Shimonoseki Station, while the Kanmon Bridge is about four kilometers away. Alternatively, there is a network of city buses. Rental bicycles are available from Shimonoseki Station for around 500 yen per day.

The Chofu former castle town is located about eight kilometers from Shimonoseki Station. Note that Chofu's sites of interest are not located close to Chofu Station, and that they are better accessed by bus to Jōkamachi Chōfu (城下町長府) from either Shimonoseki Station (25 minutes, 390 yen one way) or Shin-Shimonoseki Station (15 minutes, 320 yen one way).