by Nicola, staff writer of japan-guide.com
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In the past, I may have disagreed with someone who believed that the sulfurous smell of spoiled eggs was any cause for celebration. But of course, the existence of onsen (Japanese hot spring baths) prove exactly that. A visit to Tamagawa Onsen in Akita Prefecture reconfirmed my appreciation for onsen, and the pungent smell that goes along with it.
Tamagawa quickly became one of my favourite baths in Japan. The area around the bath house is spectacular; there are steaming rivers that glow in various shades of florescent blue, green and yellow. The air is thick with the smell of sulfur and the steam that pours out of vents in the rocks. In some parts of the river, and in little ponds and puddles, the water bubbles, hisses and steams.
As I took in Tamagawa's atmosphere, I noticed many of the other visitors really immersing themselves in the steamy surroundings. People lay down on the rocks, covered themselves in blankets and umbrellas and slept, read or relaxed, engulfed in the steam. I was intrigued, but confused.
I later discovered Tamagawa's water and air is known as a powerful therapeutic treatment for many ailments. In fact, the area's rocks are apparently slightly radioactive. People used to take them home for their healing properties, but the area is now protected. Instead, visitors seeking treatment come to Tamagawa for long stays in the ryokan, or to camp out on the rocks and bathe in the free, mixed, open air bath.
The baths are as unique as the surroundings. With a pH of 1.05, Tamagawa claims to be the most acidic onsen in Japan. Getting into bathwater with a pH level similar to that found in your stomach lining is not immediately appealing. Admittedly, at first I didn't particularly enjoy the stinging, burning sensation of the water. It felt a little bit like I imagine the beginnings of a piranha attack might feel. But I soon adjusted and began to really enjoy my bath.
Because the spring water is so strong, most of the 8 baths are diluted to make them less acidic. Tamagawa's natural spring water isn't exceptionally hot, so the mixed water baths are much hotter than the more acidic. I enjoyed all of the baths, even though I only lasted in the most acidic for about 5 minutes. Such significant variation is really pleasant, and surely offers something to suit everyone's bathing preference.
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