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March 21, 2014 - Walk the old Tokaido from Kanaya to Kakegawa

Just backside of JR Kanaya (‹à’J, 40 minutes from JR Shizuoka by train) station is the start of the trail today.
Stone paved steep upslope is quite hard to walk through, but the scenery of Japanese tea field pays it off.

It is said that old Tokaido has three taxing points. From its east, the 1st is Hakone pass,
the 2nd is gSaya no Nakayamah (¬–é‚Ì’†ŽR), and the 3rd is Suzuka pass.
The 1st and 3rd became famous tourist sites now, so we can collect lots of information and be prepared (both mentally and physically) in advance.
But the 2ndceven most Japanese must have never heard of it. I was one of them, and gSaya no Nakayamah exists in this part I walk today.
This area is one of fragment of Makinohara highlands (–q‚ÌŒ´‘ä’n), the top producer of Japanese tea in this country.

Local people here might have choose to develop their land not as the tourist attraction but as the steady tea field.
No flashy building is not be seen, even only one convenience store is not available.
Tea field, rustic farming device, and deep wood. Thatfs all. Yes, this is very nice place, and verrrry hard up-down.

If someone ask me gHow?h I answer gmuch more than you expecth

I managed to get to the hut at the top of gSaya no Nakayamah.

After a long descent from "Saya no Nakayama" for 1 hour, I reached Nissaka (“úâ) shuku.
Nissaka was the 3rd smallest postal town among 53 ones along the Tokaido in Edo period when the road was active.

Still now this town is far from train station and other local transportation system is not adequate. As its result, old laid back atmosphere remains everywhere in this tiny town.

I liked this small town very much.
If walk is not your choice, please take a local bus gHigashiyama lineh (“ŒŽRü) from JR Kakegawa (Š|ì) station (30 minutes ride from JR Hamamatsu station by Tokaido Line for Shizuoka) north bus terminal No.7. It cost around 300 JPY. Please be noted the bus service is not so frequent, every 1 to 2 hours.
From Nissaka, 1km long walk takes you to gKotonomama Shrineh (Ž–”C”ª”¦‹{).

Sei Shonagon (´­”[Œ¾,966-1017), author and a court lady who served the Empress Teishi during Heian Period (•½ˆÀŽž‘ã) paid a little description about this old shrine on her famous essay gMakuranosousih (–‘Žq, The pillow book)

The next postal town Kakegawa (Š|ì) is around 6km remote from the shrine. Not so interesting. If I were you, wait for the bus to Kakegawa on the way.

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List of Posts:
2014/07/04 - Where Heda?
2014/03/24 - Walk the old Tokaido from Kakegawa to Hamamatsu
2014/03/21 - Walk the old Tokaido from Fujieda to Kanaya
2014/03/21 - Walk the old Tokaido from Kanaya to Kakegawa
2014/03/20 - Walk the old Tokaido from Shizuoka to Fujieda
2014/03/19 - Walk the old Tokaido from Okitsu to Shizuoka
2014/01/30 - Matsuzaki, an old fashioned small port town
2014/01/20 - Walk the old Tokaido from kanbara to Okitsu
2014/01/14 - Walk the old Tokaido from Mishima to Yoshihara
2013/12/16 - Walk along the old Tokaido from Hakone to Mishima