By Unthinkable1
Nikko has a World Heritage Site and some of the most spectacular natural scenery in Japan. The best way to see more of the latter, is to go on a hike in "Oku Nikko", deep in the mountains of Tochigi prefecture.
We drove up from Tokyo in about 2 hours and checked in to the Turtle Inn Pension, perfectly situated a 10 minute walk from Toshogu shrine and by a clear flowing river lined with Jizo, the Buddha of children and travelers. The pension is only 4,000 a night and there are two Japanese style baths. The owners are very easy going.
After visiting the wonderful Toshogu shrine and Rinnoji temple, nestled amongst ancient cedar trees, we headed off on our hike.
We drove up to Chuzenji lake where we took a bus to lake Yu. From here, we followed a hiking course all the way to back to Chuzenji lake. The course takes about 2 hours and a half of gentle flat walking, and is truly awe-inspiring.
For the first part of the course, you walk on a raised wooden platform through Senjogahara, a marshland created by the eruption of Nantai san. The moor affords beautiful views of the surrounding mountains especially Nantai san, towering above at 2484 metres. The landscape is flat and open. It is home to many different kinds of flora and fauna including many deer. We happened upon large groups of deer drinking from the Yu river, and they were tame enough not to be startled by us.
After about an hour of gentle walking, you enter a larch forest home to bears, monkeys and yet more deer. We saw many deer but the other animals were more elusive. At one point a deer came leaping out onto the path a few metres infront of us, seemingly startled by something. Even though it was probably a mouse or something, we assumed it was being chased by a big bear!
Towards the end of the forest walk, there are some impressive rapids on lake Yu and then a little further on is Ryuzu waterfall, so called because it resembles a dragon's head.
From here we walked for an hour along a path beside the road, and reached lake Chuzenji in time for a curry buffet. It was a perfect way to end our hike through Oku Nikko and the marshlands of Senjogahara.
I thorougly recommend this hiking course. My friend isn't so keen on hiking, but he found the flat, easy walking and expansive views a welcome surprise. He said he'd never done Nikko that way, and frankly, neither had I.
The poster for Nikko reads, "Nikko is Japan". It should read, "Nikko is awesome!"
Tips:
- Even if you're going in summer, take a jumper ; it gets quite cold up by lake Yu.
