Smoked bonito and other delicacies in Ise Shima

Many visitors to Japan know Mie Prefecture because of the venerable Ise Shrine; but if that is as far as they venture, they are missing half of the story. The Ise Shima National Park is the national park with the highest population, making it a unique place to see how local communities coexist with nature. In Shima City, on the far edge of the peninsula, you can not only see these traditions, but also taste them!

Shima has at least three seafood claims to fame: its spiny lobster catch, its bonito smoking workshops, and its Ama divers. Today, I got my fill of all three...

The day began with a visit to Wagu port to see the spiny lobster (“Ise ebi” in Japanese) being brought in. The action took place around 6:30 am; luckily, it was only a few minutes away from Takesho, the inn where I am staying.

Removing the lobster from the nets requires considerable skill, since those with broken legs or antennae fetch a much lower price. However, the workers do not receive a wage; rather, they are friends and neighbours who are “paid” with the other fish caught up in the nets.

Goodbye for now to the lobsters; we’ll be meeting them again later... The next culinary delicacy on today’s menu was smoked bonito flakes.

Spiny lobster is a luxury food, eaten on special occasions such as New Year. Bonito, on the other hand, is so fundamental to Japanese cuisine that you may not even notice its subtle flavour in broths and other dishes. The meals offered to the gods of Ise Shrine twice a day since time immemorial include not lobster but bonito, smoked right here.

On our way back, we sampled one more local delicacy: fish dried in the open air.

Bonito and spiny lobster are caught in the Pacific Ocean, but on the other side of the peninsula is the picturesque Ago Bay, with around 60 islands and many pearl farms. It is normally tranquil, but is sure to become lively next May when the Ise Shima G7 Summit comes to Kashikojima...

Tonight’s dinner with my local hosts showcased Shima’s other famous maritime tradition, the Ama divers. These women dive without any equipment to collect shellfish from the seabed. After diving, they warm up in small huts, grilling seafood over an open hearth.

It was a great dinner, but the chance to see Mitsuhashi-san’s actual Ama hut this morning was even more memorable. Although less photogenic, it shows that Ama are not museum pieces, but a living profession. I was also impressed by how carefully they reuse everything.

Whether smoking bonito or diving for shellfish, the friendly residents of Shima clearly have a deep knowledge of and respect for the sea, and are glad to share its bounty with visitors. But in this case, a bite is worth a thousand words, so please go and taste for yourself...