Travel Reports by mfedley view profile of mfedley

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February 11, 2016 - Artsy Naoshima: Tsutsuji-so to Miyanoura Port

Two decades ago, Naoshima along with many of the Seto Islands seemed to be dying a slow death. However - this small island relatively busy due to it's art on a cold and windy February Tuesday. For today, I will cover the main art attractions along with Mayanoura Port and I'll cover the Art House Project for my next post.

For today, I visited the following locations in order

(1) Benesse House
(2) Lee Ufan Museum
(3) Chichi Art Museum
(4) 007 Museum
(5) I Luv U Bath House
(6) Views from my Yurt

There was also heaps of art to see along the way - but what stuck with me the most was how some art can be extremely enjoyable while some art can make you feel stupid.

As I was staying in Takamatsu the previous night, I needed to catch one of the much more frequent than Teshima ferry to Naoshima. After a very early morning the day before when I'm still on another time zone, I was able to sleep in a little and catch the 10:14AM ferry from Terminal 2. The cost is 520 yen and should take 50 minutes.

When you arrive at Miyanoura Port, most people tend to either catch a bus or ride a bike. For me, I took the middle ground and took a local bus (100 yen - 16 minutes) to the last stop called Tsutsuji-so which also happened to be the name of the accommodation I would be staying at. After dropping off my luggage, I decided to walk back to Miyanoura Port visiting the main sites on the way.

For me, one of the highlights of the day was all of the outdoor artwork found around the Benesse house. Most of it is a little quirky and I'm starting to understand that I like folk art more as time goes on. It's around a 15 minute well signposted walk to the Benesse House

The Benesse House costs 1030 yen to enter and also doubles as a hotel. For me - this was probably the best value for money museum out of the big 3 (Benesse, Chichu & Lee Ufan). The thing this gallery has going for it is the different types of artwork present along with some reasonably striking architecture. My favourite individual piece of art today was called "Chatter". If you ever visit here - you'll know which piece of art I'm talking about.....

It's an odd thing to say, but close to the best part of the Lee Ufan museum was looking at the architecture as you get closer to the entrance. This museum is around 10 minutes from the Benesse House and also costs 1030 yen to begin. Probably my favourite piece of work was a rock that had a large shadow. In the shadow - they projected changed videos.

The Chichu Museum is around a 10 minute walk from the Lee Ufan Museum and costs 2060 yen to enter which I would call quite exorbitant. The art pieces (3 small exhibitions in total) are spectacularly presented (specifically Monet's Water Lillies with the changing natural light which changes the colours dramatically) but you definitely don't get much bang for your buck. My favourite piece of work here was the "Open Sky" room which has somehow has found the perfect angle to allow people to comfortably stare at the sky while leaning on a wall while sitting.

From the Chichu Art Museum, its around a 30 minute downhill walk to Miyanoura Port. For those lazy bones, you can catch a bus back to the Benesse House and the catch the local bus back to Miyanoura Port but it will take a lot longer!

One thing I love is tacky things - so it comes as no surprise that the 007 Museum (free) in Miyanoura Port was a highlight of my day. It seems as though one of the James Bond books is actually situated on Naoshima island. Due to this - they want to get this book made into a movie. The piece de resistance is a 20 minute movie/infomercial which I would pay to own a copy of. It's in the 'so bad it's good' category. For example - the Map of Kazakstan found in Astana, Kazakhstan

The I Luv U Bath House is located very close to Miyanoura Port and costs 510 yen to enter. Do note that this cost does not include any soap or towels which sets you back a bit over 1,000 yen. For those of you who are prudish and have younger sons - there are some suggestive pictures on the bottom of the baths themselves.

Apologies for all of the pictures of the sunset - I guess it's my "kid in a candy store" kind of moment....

Even though Naoshima was much busier (but not that busy) compared to what I was expecting, I really enjoyed today. This island is really geared for English speaking tourists compared to many other places I have visited. One thing that I was considering was staying at either the Benesse house or at the Tsutsuji-so lodge and I think that my wallet and curiosity won out. It's an odd thing to say - but if it was just a normal place I would have stayed at the Benesse house - but staying inside a yurt??

For tomorrow, I will be visiting the Art House project and then making my way back to Takamatsu. For those who are interested in another Art Island - I have also visited Inujima which can be seen here:

/community/mfedley/report-1410

Further Information:

Artwork on Naoshima - http://setouchi-artfest.jp/en/artworks-artists/artworks/naoshima/ (in English)

Getting to Naoshima: http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/access/ (in English)

Naoshima Tourism Bureau: http://www.naoshima.net/en/index.php (in English)

Don't forget to pick up the free map of Naoshima in either Takamatsu or on Naoshima - it's invaluable!!

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List of Posts:
2020/04/04 - Best of Japan - More Temples
2020/03/29 - Best of Japan - More Residences
2020/03/29 - Best of Japan - More Nature
2020/03/01 - Best of Japan - Historical
2020/02/22 - Best of Japan - More Shrines
2020/02/18 - Best of Japan - More Gardens
2020/02/15 - Best of Japan - Art & Events
2020/02/14 - Best of Japan - History & Museums
2020/02/12 - Best of Japan - Residences
2020/02/06 - Best of Japan - Views
2020/02/05 - Best of Japan - Animals
2020/02/04 - Best of Japan - Shrines
2020/02/02 - Best of Japan - Nature
2020/02/02 - Best of Japan - Festivals
2020/02/02 - Best of Japan - Castles
2020/01/30 - Best of Japan - Gardens
2020/01/27 - Best of Japan - Industrial Heritage
2020/01/27 - Best of Japan - Temples
2020/01/11 - Iizuka - Fukuoka
2020/01/11 - Tosu - Saga + Fukuoka Prefecture
2020/01/10 - Iriki to Kagoshima
2020/01/09 - Satsuma Food - Kagoshima
2020/01/09 - Ibusuki to Iriki - Kagoshima
2020/01/08 - Jigenji to Ibusuki - Kagoshima
2020/01/08 - Chiran - Kagoshima Prefecture
2020/01/07 - Tarumizu to Jigenji - Kagoshima
2020/01/06 - Kagoshima to Tarumizu
2020/01/05 - Sengan-an Area - Kagoshima City
2020/01/05 - Shiroyama Area - Kagoshima City
2020/01/04 - Kagoshima City - Day 1
2020/01/03 - Yakushima Drive - Kagoshima
2020/01/02 - Yakusugi Land - Yakushima
2020/01/01 - Shiratani Unsui - Yakushima
2019/12/30 - Cold & Soggy Kyoto
2019/12/29 - Kasuga Taisha to Station - Nara Prefecture
2019/12/29 - Todai-ji Area - Nara Prefecture
2019/12/28 - Kodaiji Area - Kyoto Prefecture
2019/12/28 - Takao - Kyoto Prefecture
2019/12/27 - Amanohashidate - Kyoto Prefecture
2019/12/27 - Yoshiminedera & Ine - Kyoto Prefecture
2019/12/26 - Imperial Kyoto
2019/12/25 - Southern Shiga Prefecture
2019/12/25 - Iga Ueno - Mie Prefecture
2019/12/24 - Omi Hachiman - Shiga Prefecture
2019/12/24 - Higashi Omi - Shiga Prefecture
2019/12/23 - Nagahama - Shiga Prefecture
2019/12/23 - Chikubu Island - Shiga Prefecture
2019/12/22 - Otsu to Nagahama - Shiga Prefecture
2019/12/21 - Arima Onsen - Hyogo Prefecture
2019/12/21 - Kobe Day 2 - Hyogo Prefecture
2019/12/20 - Kobe Day 1 : Hyogo Prefecture
2019/01/11 - Obscure Kyushu : Kashima & Dazaifu
2019/01/10 - Obscure Kyushu : Arita
2019/01/10 - Obscure Kyushu : Takeo
2019/01/09 - Obscure Kyushu : Kurokawa to Ureshino
2019/01/08 - Obscure Kyushu : Aso to Kurokawa
2019/01/07 - Obscure Kyushu : Yamaga to Aso
2019/01/06 - Obscure Kyushu : Yamaga
2019/01/06 - Obscure Kyushu : Kumamoto Castle Sites
2019/01/05 - Obscure Kyushu : Outer Kumamoto City
2019/01/04 - Obscure Kyushu : Minamata
2019/01/04 - Obscure Kyushu : Izumi
2019/01/03 - Obscure Kyushu: Kirishima
2019/01/02 - Obscure Kyushu : Hitoyoshi
2019/01/02 - Obscure Kyushu : Yatsushiro
2019/01/01 - Obscure Kyushu : Amakusa
2018/12/31 - Obscure Kyushu - Munakata to Amasuka
2018/12/30 - Obscure Kyushu - Munakata
2018/07/18 - Hidden Honshu: Fukuyama
2018/07/17 - Hidden Honshu: Tomonoura
2018/07/17 - Hidden Honshu: Iwakuni
2018/07/16 - Hidden Honshu: Tsuwano
2018/07/15 - Hidden Honshu: Hagi's Residences
2018/07/15 - Hidden Honshu: Hagi's Shrine District & Temples
2018/07/15 - Hidden Honshu: Hagi's Castle Town
2018/07/14 - Hidden Honshu: Iwami Ginzan
2018/07/14 - Hidden Honshu: Izumo
2018/07/13 - Hidden Honshu: Yonago
2018/07/13 - Hidden Honshu: Matsue's Gardens
2018/07/12 - Hidden Honshu: Mikuni
2018/07/11 - Hidden Honshu: Awara Onsen
2018/07/10 - Hidden Honshu: Kanazawa's Museums
2018/07/09 - Hidden Honshu: Kanazawa's Samurai District
2018/07/09 - Hidden Honshu: Kanazawa's Castle District
2018/07/08 - Hidden Honshu: Sado's Shukunegi
2018/07/08 - Hidden Honshu: Southern Sado
2018/07/07 - Hidden Honshu: Northern Sado
2018/07/06 - Hidden Honshu: Getting to Sado
2018/07/05 - Hidden Honshu: Sakata
2018/07/04 - Hidden Honshu: Akita
2018/07/03 - Hidden Honshu: Kakunodate
2018/07/02 - Hidden Honshu: Nyuto to Tamagawa Onsen
2018/07/01 - Hidden Honshu: Morioka to Nyuto Onsen
2018/06/30 - Hidden Honshu: Matsumae
2018/02/23 - Southern Odyssey - Taketomi
2018/02/23 - Southern Odyssey - Ishigaki City
2018/02/22 - Southern Odyssey - Ishigaki Island
2018/02/21 - Southern Odyssey - Iriomote
2018/02/20 - Southern Odyssey - Okinawa to Iriomote
2018/02/19 - Southern Odyssey - Okinawa WW2 Sites
2018/02/19 - Southern Odyssey - Okinawa Day 5 Southern Attractions
2018/02/18 - Southern Odyssey - Okinawa Day 4 Naha
2018/02/17 - Southern Odyssey - Okinawa Day 3
2018/02/16 - Southern Odyssey - Ocean Expo Park
2018/02/16 - Southern Odyssey - Ie Island
2018/02/15 - Southern Odyssey - Okinawa Hanami Report
2018/02/15 - Southern Odyssey - Okinawa Day 1
2018/02/14 - Southern Odyssey - Amami to Okinawa
2018/02/13 - Southern Odyssey - Amami Day 3
2018/02/12 - Southern Odyssey - Amami Day 2
2018/02/11 - Southern Odyssey - Amami Day 1
2017/07/04 - Shikotsu Lake to Noboribetsu - Hokkaido
2017/07/03 - Otaru to Shikotsu - Hokkaido
2017/07/02 - Otaru - Hokkaido
2017/07/02 - Yoichi - Hokkaido
2017/07/01 - Biei to Sapporo - Hokkaido
2017/06/30 - Sounkyo Onsen to Biei - Hokkaido
2017/06/29 - Shibetsu to Sounkyu Onsen - Hokkaido
2017/06/28 - Hokkaido: Wakkanai to Shibetsu
2017/06/27 - Rebun Island - Lake Kushu & Kafuka
2017/06/26 - Rebun Island - Momoiwa Course
2017/06/25 - Rishiri Island - Hokkaido
2017/06/23 - Imaicho - Nara Prefecture
2017/06/22 - Asuka & Sakurai - Nara Prefecture
2017/06/22 - Nara Yamoto 4 Temple Pilgrimage
2017/06/21 - Yoshino - Nara Prefecture
2017/06/20 - Sakai - Osaka Prefecture
2017/06/19 - Osaka - Namba Area
2017/06/19 - Western Osaka
2017/06/18 - Kansai & Hokkaido Trip Intro & Central Osaka
2017/02/06 - Closed Kurume - Fukuoka
2017/02/05 - Miyazaki to Kobayashi
2017/02/04 - Obi Castle Town - Miyazaki
2017/02/04 - Nichinan Coast - Miyazaki
2017/02/03 - Gardens & Museums of Miyazaki City
2017/02/02 - Shrines of Takachiko - Miyazaki
2017/02/01 - Usuki City - Oita
2017/01/31 - Hita & Surrounds - Oita
2017/01/31 - Yufuin Onsen - Oita
2017/01/30 - Hells of Beppu
2017/01/30 - Oita City - Oita
2017/01/29 - Kitsuki Castle Town - Oita
2017/01/28 - Hiji Castle Town - Oita
2017/01/28 - Templing in Kunisaki Hanto
2017/01/27 - Nakatsu to Yamaga Onsen
2017/01/27 - Eastern Kyushu Trip Info & Nakatsu
2016/08/02 - Ohori Park - Fukuoka
2016/08/01 - Fukuoka's Gion Temple Cluster
2016/07/31 - Unzen Onsen - Nagasaki Prefecture
2016/07/31 - Shimabara - Nagasaki Prefecture
2016/07/30 - Nagasaki City - Northern City Attractions
2016/07/29 - Nagasaki City - Southern Attractions
2016/07/29 - Hashima - Nagasaki Prefecture
2016/07/28 - Huis Ten Bosch Day 2 (Day)
2016/07/27 - Huis Ten Bosch Day 1 (Night)
2016/07/26 - Hirado Part 2 - Nagasaki
2016/07/26 - Hirado Part 1 - Nagasaki
2016/07/25 - Gardens of Takeo - Saga Prefecture
2016/07/24 - Yutoku Inari Shrine
2016/07/24 - Ureshino - Saga
2016/07/23 - Yoshinogari Park - Saga
2016/07/23 - Saga City - Saga Prefecture
2016/07/22 - Yobuko - Saga Prefecture
2016/07/21 - Karatsu City - Saga
2016/07/20 - Mojiko - Fukuoka
2016/07/20 - Kokura - Fukuoka
2016/07/19 - Dazaifu - Fukuoka
2016/07/18 - Nokonoshima Island - Fukuoka
2016/07/17 - NW Kyushu Trip Info & Yanagawa
2016/03/02 - Shikoku Highlights
2016/02/21 - Hadaka Matsuri: Saidaji Temple Okayama
2016/02/20 - Okayama Museum Cluster - Okayama Prefecture
2016/02/19 - Marugame & Kotohira - Kagawa Prefecture
2016/02/18 - Matsuyama - Ehime Prefecture
2016/02/17 - Uchihiko - Ehime
2016/02/17 - Ozu - Ehime Prefecture
2016/02/16 - Seiyo
2016/02/16 - Uwajima - Ehime Prefecture
2016/02/15 - Kochi to Otsuki
2016/02/14 - Kochi - Kochi - Kochi
2016/02/13 - Toyo to Yasu via Aki
2016/02/12 - Naruto to Toya
2016/02/11 - Takamatsu to Naruto
2016/02/11 - Artsy Naoshima: Honmura Art Project
2016/02/11 - Artsy Naoshima: Tsutsuji-so to Miyanoura Port
2016/02/10 - Takamatsu - Kagawa Prefecture
2016/02/10 - Shikoku Trip Info & Artsy Teshima
2015/07/19 - Accommodation in Japan - Last Post
2015/07/19 - Food in Japan
2015/07/15 - Hongu Taisha - Wakayama
2015/07/14 - Shingu & Ogi Matsuri - Wakayama
2015/07/13 - Nachi Taisha & Kii-Katsuura - Wakayama
2015/07/12 - Kii-Tanabe & Kumano Kodo - Wakayama
2015/07/10 - Wacky Wakayama City - Wakayama
2015/07/08 - Tottori City - Tottori Prefecture
2015/07/06 - Izushi - Hyogo
2015/07/05 - Kinosaki Onsen - Hyogo
2015/07/04 - Yamanaka Onsen - Ishikawa
2015/07/03 - Wajima to Wakura - Ishikawa
2015/07/02 - Eastern Noto Peninsula Drive - Ishikawa
2015/07/01 - Kanazawa to Wajima - Ishikawa
2015/06/30 - Itoigawa Salt Road - Niigata
2015/06/29 - Coastal Itoigawa - Niigata
2015/06/28 - Kurobe Dam Railway - Toyama
2015/06/27 - Iiyama City & Madarao Kogen - Nagano
2015/06/26 - Rural Iiyama & Nozawa Onsen - Nagano
2015/06/24 - Manza Onsen - Gunma Prefecture
2015/06/23 - Kusatsu Onsen - Gunma
2015/06/21 - Dewa Sanzan - Yamagata
2015/06/20 - Tsuruoka to Dewa Sanzan - Yamagata
2015/06/19 - Tsuruoka Town - Yamagata
2015/06/18 - Haruna Jinja - Gunma
2015/06/17 - Japan Trip Intro, JR Pass & Yokohama
2014/10/25 - Koyo In Japan - A Collection of Photos
2014/06/22 - Narita & Sawara - My Last Post!
2014/06/14 - Yahiko - Niigata
2014/06/07 - Ajiro Onsen
2014/05/17 - Gifu City
2014/05/17 - Cormorant Fishing - Gifu City
2014/05/11 - Shorin-zan Daruma-ji Temple
2014/05/10 - Gunma Flower Park
2014/04/27 - Obuse - Cherry Blossom Report
2014/04/26 - Togakushi & Nagano
2014/04/13 - Toyokawa & Toyohashi
2014/04/12 - Futagawa - Cherry Blossom Report
2014/02/09 - Ono - Fukui Prefecture
2014/02/08 - Eiheiji & Fukui City
2014/01/19 - Nokogiri-Yama - Chiba
2014/01/03 - Izumo Taisha & Adachi Museum of Art
2014/01/02 - Matsue - Shimane Prefecture
2014/01/01 - Hagi - Yamaguchi Prefecture
2013/12/31 - Yamaguchi
2013/12/30 - Akiyoshido Cave - Yamaguchi Prefecture
2013/12/29 - Miyajima - Hiroshima Prefecture
2013/12/28 - Hiroshima
2013/12/27 - Onomichi - Hiroshima Prefecture
2013/12/26 - Kurashiki
2013/12/25 - Bitsu-Takahashi: Okayama Prefecture
2013/12/24 - Kibi Plain - Okayama Prefecture
2013/12/23 - Inujima Art Park - Okayama Prefecture
2013/12/22 - Okayama
2013/12/22 - Himeji Castle & Kokoen Gardens
2013/12/21 - Shoshazan Engyogi Temple Walk - Himeji
2013/12/16 - Tsumago to Magome - Spring & Winter
2013/12/08 - Ito - Through The Seasons
2013/11/26 - Kyoto Autumn Report - Central Kyoto to Higashiyama
2013/11/26 - Kyoto Autumn Report - Arashiyama Part 2
2013/11/25 - Kyoto Autumn Report - Arashiyama Part 1
2013/11/24 - Kyoto Autumn Report - Tofukuji & Night Illuminations
2013/11/17 - Showa Kinen Koen
2013/11/10 - Kofu City - Autumn Report
2013/11/09 - Shosenkyo Gorge - Autumn Report
2013/10/26 - Hirosaki - Apples & Temples
2013/10/25 - Hirosaki Castle Park & Surrounds - Autumn
2013/10/24 - Oirase Stream - Autumn Report
2013/10/23 - Lake Towada & Yasumiya - Autumn Report
2013/10/22 - Rural Tono - Autumn Report
2013/10/21 - Tono - Shrine Cluster
2013/10/20 - Central Tono - Iwate
2013/10/19 - Urabandai - Autumn Report
2013/10/02 - Kamikochi - Autumn Report
2013/09/29 - Mito - Ibaraki Prefecture
2013/09/28 - Rural Fukuroda & Ibaraki Flower Park
2013/09/14 - Atami - Shizuoka Prefecture
2013/08/16 - Noboribetsu - Summer & Autumn
2013/08/12 - Mt Asahidake - Daisetsuzan National Park
2013/08/11 - Asahiyama Zoo - Asahikawa
2013/08/10 - Sapporo - Summer & Autumn
2013/08/08 - Lake Toya - Hokkaido
2013/08/07 - Aomori Nebuta Matsuri
2013/08/06 - Osorezan - Shimokita Peninsula
2013/08/04 - Akita Kanto Matsuri
2013/08/03 - Yumoto Onsen to Chuzenji Lake Walk
2013/07/11 - Kyoto - Daigo-ji Temple
2013/07/10 - Kyoto - Mt Hieizan
2013/07/09 - Kyoto - Ohara
2013/07/07 - Kyoto - Koryuji Area
2013/07/06 - Uji - Summer
2013/07/05 - Hikone
2013/07/04 - Kyoto Station & Surroundings Attractions
2013/06/01 - Tokyo Parks & Gardens - Part 2
2013/05/26 - Tokyo Parks & Gardens - Part 1
2013/05/19 - Ouchijuku (Fukushima)
2013/05/18 - Aizu Wakamatsu (Fukushima Prefecture)
2013/05/13 - Geibi-kei Gorge & Ichinoseki
2013/05/11 - A Rainy Hiraizumi
2013/05/07 - Matsusaka Walk
2013/05/06 - Nara - Horyuji Temple & Koriyama Area
2013/05/05 - South West Nara Temple Trail (Golden Week)
2013/05/04 - Ise Naiku & Geku Shrines (Golden Week)
2013/04/29 - Western & South Eastern Kamakura Bike Ride
2013/04/28 - Yamadera Mountain Temple - Spring
2013/04/27 - Yamagata Cherry Blossom Report
2013/04/27 - Yonezawa Cherry Blossom Report
2013/04/20 - Nikko's Main Temples & Shrines
2013/04/20 - Nikko - Gardens & History Walk
2013/04/14 - Meiji Mura Park - Inuyama
2013/04/13 - Inuyama Town & Castle
2013/04/05 - Koyasan - Okunoin Temple & Temple Stay
2013/04/04 - Koyasan Bike Ride: From Daimon to Karukayado
2013/04/03 - Nara Park Cherry Blossom Report
2013/04/02 - Kyoto Cherry Blossom Report - Kiyomuzi & Nanzen-ji
2013/04/02 - Kyoto Cherry Blossom Report - Philosophers Trail
2013/04/01 - Kyoto Report - Temples, Shrines & Geisha
2013/03/30 - Furukawa - Takayama's Impressive Little Brother
2013/03/27 - Hakone Day Tour Loop
2013/03/26 - Cherry Blossom Report - Odawara Castle
2013/03/23 - Cherry Blossom Report - Yokohama @ Honmoku
2013/03/16 - Kamakura - North Western Bike Ride
2013/03/11 - Shimoda & Irozaki Coast
2013/03/09 - Minami-Izu Cherry Blossom Festival
2013/03/09 - Kawazu Cherry Blossom Matsuri & Kawazu Falls
2013/03/08 - Kamakura - Hase Area Walk
2013/03/03 - Kawaguchiko - Fuji Five Lakes
2013/02/24 - Kawasaki - On & Off The Beaten Track
2013/02/17 - Yamagata - An Unexpected Day Trip
2013/02/16 - Half of Yamadera & Zao Snow Monsters
2013/02/15 - Sendai - Winter
2013/02/14 - Matsushima - Winter
2013/02/09 - Yamanouchi Snow Monkeys & Nagano Zenkoji Temple
2013/02/06 - Shizuoka - Temples & Plum Blossoms