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25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/6 14:55
Hello all,

Thanks everyone for being very patient in the past few days to answer my questions! Finally I have come up with several tentative schedule, I have a lot of questions still however (the system of bus/train and logistics planning for this long trip has been very complicated thus far!), I hope you will bear with me.

For those who don't know, we are a group of 6 people (5 are elders) travelling in Kyushu from late January til late February for 25 days. We love onsen (I have tried very hard so that we won't be onsen-out in this trip however), scenic area and getting to know japanese family homes (so any home-stay suggestion woudl be great!). Since most participants are rather old, they don't want too much walking however and definitely no hiking (I did put in one very easy trail in Kirishima to see frost flower in Onami lake - crossing my fingers that the frost flower are still around when we get there ). We all come from tropical area so we don't want to stay too long in the cold (from 10degree C and above is most ideal). We are on budget (say 1500-2000$ per pax - is that too little/too much?).

We are qualified to drive in Japan but I don't feel comfortable to navigate in Japan in a long trip, in wintersnow, neither are we ready to pay high toll fee, drop-off fee, parking fee (especially the timed one), that may just increase our budget substantially without being able to foresee all additional cost. Plus our group is large so standard size car with great discount isn't an option. We will drive, however in the extremely remote area that are also easy to return car in a day or too at the same destination, like in here, as the day trip to Takachiho.

Enough explanation, here is our plan:

Day 1: Arrive at noon in Fukuoka, over night in Fukuoka
Day 2: Nagasaki day trip: Gunkanjima trip and Nomozaki daffodil festival / Kamome sightseeing train?
Day 3 - Day 10: Aso, Kurokawa and Beppu area, then back to Hakata/Nagasaki (northern course)
A course:
Day 3: Fukuoka - Beppu; Day 4: Beppu , Day 5: Kurokawa; Day 6: Aso , Day 7: Takachiho day trip, overnight in Aso - Day 8,9, 10: Aso back to Hakata and/or Nagasaki (some day in Saga is likely considered)
B course:
Day 3: Fukuoka - Aso , Day 4: Aso day trip and Takachiho in one day, Day 5: Kurokawa, Day 6: Beppu, Day 7: Beppu, Day 8,9,10: Beppu back to Hakata and/or Nagasaki (some day in Saga is likely considered)

Day 11: Sasebo Kujukushima island cruise + Oyster festival, then depart for Unzen and overnight there
Day 12: Unzen back to Nagasaki, try the ropeway (according to the website, the ropeway should start working again the day before after a long suspension perid, let's hope they work ontime)

Day 13: Lantern festival in Nagasaki
Day 14 -21: southern course
C Course: Hisatsu line over mountainous area down to Kagoshima and back up along the coast line with Izumi and Minamata
Day 14: Nagasaki -Kirishima (the scenic Hisatsu line) - Day 15: Kirishima (hopefully to see frost flower over Onami lake early Feb), Day 16: Kagoshima (rape flower around lake Ikeda), Day 17: Ibusuki, Day 18: Ibusuki, Day 19: Izumi, Day 20: Minamata(2 day trip with farmer family and crane observation), Day 21: Yatsushiro

D Course: along the coast first then back up with Hisatsu line
Day 14: Yatsushiro, Day 15: Izumi, Day 16: Minamata, Day 17: Kagoshima, Day 18: Ibusuki, Day 19: Ibusuki, Day 20: Kirishima, Day 21: Kirishima

Day 22-Day 25: Fukuoka (kita kyushu/ kurume area)

Does it look very tiredsome and complicated to you? It took me a long time to come up with these 4 options and I am still not very happy with it! Let me know if it is too ambitious and if I should any part out. I have been very unlucky finding during February 2016, Nagashi soumen, SL Hitoyoshi, Orange Hisatsu railway, and most likely acess to Aso crater aren't available. Many areas in winter will alos look majorly different than the advertising pictures we often found tourist site (like the green field of Kusasenri...). That is to say, that please let me know, if you think any area isn't recommended in winter. I prefer as little snow and coldness as possible (except for Unzen, Aso and Kirishima, I come there for the frost afterall).

Regarding transportation, do you think I should get the 21 day all Japan JR pass? or several northern Kyushu/ All kyushu pass would do? I am expecting lots of little charge here and there for taxi rides/bus rides/local train between places (I will try to book hotel as close to main station as possible though).

SunQ bus pass is also an option though it seems that the bus ride is much longer and not as comfortable and scenic as the rail? and I am assuming that most bus stations aren't in very convenient location to touristic areas unless I accept transfer (but with luggage I would like as little transfer as possible)

And since Orange line is suspended for renovation, any information regarding transporation for the coastline in Kagoshima (Izumi/Minamata that's not shinkansen would be greatly appreciated!)
Several big trip I mentioned above in the itinerary are something I have great concern for: Fukuoka- Aso, Nagasaki - Kirishima, Fukuoka-Kirishima, Yatsushima- Nagasaki, Nagasaki-Aso, Nagasaki -Beppu. Geographically, Nagasaki is just so out of the way but I have to come back there twice for 1/ the Nomozaki daffodil flower festival which ends by the end of January, 2/ the chinese new year lantern festival 7-9 days later! That really gives a huge increase of travel to the trip while most members in my groups won't be abe to endure such a long trip with more than 2 transfer. Any thought to reduce amount of time on transportation?

Also, this is a reunion family trip for members from all across the oceans, (and I am not kidding! we came from 4 different areas and 2 nations) rather than just a touring trip, we would be happy to stay at a scenic place (again, preferably warm) somewhere to cook and chill rather than just rushing for train and hopping from one spot to another. Any thought of a good town/apartment for rent/ hostel at a fairly low cost that's not too out of the way without the need of a car?

Thank you for your patience!
by bichxa (guest)  

Re: 25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/7 08:23
Reading your post, the first thing that is screaming for attention is you expect to pay per person for 25 days $1500-2000? Is that not including accommodations? What about transport? Japan does not have to be as high as many scaremongering fear-pushers say, but even $2000 would be extremely tightfisted at best and reasonably speaking, insufficient. Japan is not Thailand, you know.
The next issue is why just Kyushu? There are many great places, but it is easy to go to Honshu (or even Shikoku) and what is the reason of not even venturing into Yamaguchi? A 21 day rail pass would not pay off for your plans above, and using one while just staying on one of the smaller islands like Kyushu makes no sense anyway.
In the last part of your post you then suggest getting a hostel or apartment for a month and then not traveling much for your time. That would make things more economical, and there is enough in some areas to take up at least a few days each, for example in Fukuoka you can look through:
http://www.thejapanfaq.com/fukpic.html
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7LcPcmoSg-j4RLa6iC7ayvBAbOn8-0...
or Nagasaki there is:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7LcPcmoSg-gbw2yXNLK92siHyNqSNx...
But I think you need to think through your plans more.
by Ken (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: 25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/7 11:21
What's the difference between course A and B? I'm still not getting it.
I find taking the car to still be a better option. It is the cheapest option for travel especially if you get a 7 seater vehicle. Use it for travel for Long distance travel. For example from Nagasaki to beppu via kurokawa and Kumamoto and Aso.

Why no yufuin?
If you increase your Budget you can stay at some really nice ryokans.
Like ken, I disagree with the amount of money you are allocating per person. Just the flight into Japan should take out a sizable chunk of that Budget. Even if you'll staying in hostels and no frill hotels, you'll spend about $50 a day, about half your Budget gone.
If you include food and transport this is near impossible.
by Jh (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: 25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/7 15:46
It's "A-Course" OR "B-Course" and it's "C-Course" OR "D-Course" from the days listed.

It can be cold even in southern Kyushu in February, especially in the mountains, so your time in Kirishima will not be warm. The walk to Onami-ko is an all uphill trek from the road parking lot and takes about 40 minutes each way. There is another trail from the hotel/restaurant area on Ebino-Kogen but it's longer and takes more time. You aren't guaranteed "frost flowers" at Onami as you need specific air temperature and a warm soil temperature for them to form and those variables aren't constants.

With the age and number of people you're traveling with, I would slow it down and do as much by train as you can. It would be less stressful than to try to make a lot of connections while traveling or even just traveling every other day. Take a look at a Kyushu rail map and see where your destinations lie, and perhaps eliminate some that are well off the train lines.

The JR train south of Yatsushiro is now back in operation.

Takachiho-kyo takes a bit of time getting to and it's a pretty little gorge, but I think you could drop it to spend more time in Aso/Kurokawa. You could add Hita and Yufuin as suggested between Hakata and Beppu.

You'll need to take a bus or taxi to get to Kurokawa and up to Kusasenri on Aso (the crater area is off limits). You could stop over in Kurokawa after going through Aso, and then pick up the bus to Yufuin/Beppu or the reverse. There is also a bus from Kumamoto Station to Kurokawa if you skip going up Aso. The drive along the Yamanami Highway between Beppu, Kurokawa, and Aso is one of the prettiest in Kyushu. There are onsen north of Mt. Kuju off the Highway, also.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionsNear-g298218-d1956493-Yamanami_H...

Nagasaki can take some time to get to also, as it's isolated on the SW part of the island. By train or highway bus, you have to go almost to Hakata to turn SW down to Saga and Nagasaki if you're in the southern or eastern part of Kyushu. You can make it a day trip from Hakata but an overnight in Nagasaki is better.

I would pick 3 or 4 bases for hotels, and then do day trips from these bases, such as Hakata, Nagasaki, Beppu, Kumamoto, or Kagoshima (if you're going to Ibusuki). This will save a lot of time packing and unpacking and carrying luggage on buses or trains. There's not a lot in Yatsushiro, for example, so you wouldn't need to stop there unless the Shohinken tea house and the Toyo Ito fire station (architect) were important to visit. The snack bars in Yatsushiro are some of the best around, also (except around the port).

Thin out your travel days so you can enjoy where you're at. In this way also, if someone gets tired, they can stay at the hotel while the rest of you go exploring. You could also break into two groups if you had different interests while stopped, but if you're on the road all the time, those options aren't open.
by Anaguma (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: 25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/8 01:16
First of all thank you all for those that replied!

Regarding my budget, yes I know it is not a lot but I actually have done in the past in Japan and of course, NOT including airfare , but I actually got a very good deal also, only less than 400$ round trip to Japan from my country. This will probably answer Ken's second comment as well regarding why I chose Kyushu only. We have traveled in Japan twice, each time 15-30 days and spent roughly 80$/ day both in Okinawa and Honshu, not including gift and shopping fee. Okinawa could have been cheaper if we drove or go around by public transportation but instead we went around places (even 3-5 hour long trip!) completely by taxi. And the budget was actually comfortable, not so much crunching..so I am hoping to this again in Kyushu this time as I don't want (too much) snow and we want to travel this time of the year.

@ JH: In term of travel long places, I am actually set on using the sightseeing train from Nagasaki to Beppu for example, Kyushu has amazing sightseeing train and they are actually aint too expensive. My real issue however, is to organize the trip in order so I spend money on transportation wisely, especially with a JR pass for example. What I agree with you and worry also is between very remoted places like kurokawa, it is just apparently more convenient to drive...however, I am not very comfortable w driving moutain road first time right hand size, w lots of kanji sign board... w icy road and 5 elders in the back! Have you ever done such route in Japan in winter?

@ anaguma: thank you so much for your very detail reply, i do want to make use of train as much as possible as well!
The scene of Takachiho is just so irresistible.. really, how nice is it still in winter I wonder?

I thought Yufuin is nice but from I read it seems like an upperclass touristic town... or is it? if it is just like kurokawa with a less traditional ancient-ish look, I would rather spend for kurokawa. But I would happy to hear more about your personal opinion!

Hita is an interesting sugestions, what do you like about it?

I also heard about the amazing drive from Kumamoto to Kurokawa. However, how it be in winter? I dropped Kusasenri completely for this reason.

Regarding Yatsushiro, I heard there are Gokanosho and the suspension bridge, Sakamoto village, and Hinagu: the 3-story-onsen. What do you think?

Thank you again for your really valuable advices! I would seriously consider them, and check back my itinerary again.
by bichxa (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: 25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/8 11:51
Hita is an interesting sugestions, what do you like about it?

Hita is an historic architecture town and an onsen area along the JR line between Hakata and Beppu. It was under the direct control of the Tokugawa Shogunate in the Edo Period because of its silver mines. It's now made up of 5 former villages/towns that got merged in 2005 into "Hita." The old buildings (another "Little Kyoto") are in Mameda. Amagase has hot springs.

http://www.hita-mameda.jp/

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g1023432-Hita_Oita_Prefecture_Kyush...

I'd rather go there than Beppu but if you haven't been to Beppu you've got to feed the hippos.

I also heard about the amazing drive from Kumamoto to Kurokawa. However, how it be in winter? I dropped Kusasenri completely for this reason.

I've ridden this area in winter on a 750cc bike but I could choose my days. Most of the time it's just cold but the roads are clear. Occasionally, however, wet snow can stick to the roads stopping traffic for a day or 2 until it melts. I think it was 3 years ago when we got stuck going up the east end of Aso caldera toward Oita along with everybody else (in a car). A drive to Kusasenri would give nice views over the caldera and closer views of the smoking Nakadake Crater. There could be snow there but the roads are usually clear. The small ski slope up there shut down a long time ago because it never got enough snow.

Regarding Yatsushiro, I heard there are Gokanosho and the suspension bridge, Sakamoto village, and Hinagu: the 3-story-onsen. What do you think?

I love Gokanosho although most of my acquaintances there have now passed away. It is not easy to get to. You need to take a tour, hire a taxi, or rent a car (with a navi). I try to get there at least 1ce a year or more if I can get to some falls to go swimming. There are many tsuribashi there, but the most famous is the double one at Momigi, past the Heike no sato museum site. All of these places around Gokanosho and Itsuki can be difficult if it snows. However, the snow doesn't last long or get deep. Getting there is also time consuming as the roads are windy and narrow (fun on a bike!).

Sakamoto has the Tembodai Observatory and just nice views along the Kuma River. You need a car to get to the observatory, but the train follows the river except in a couple of places for some nice scenery. There is also the Kuraon Onsen in Sakamoto overlooking the river which is not too far from the grave of Nichira (Korean adviser to Prince Shotoku). In Hinagu, the 3-story onsen owner was still trying to get his place listed as a national historic structure but I haven't heard how this process is going. It's an old ryokan and the ladies that work there have been there since it was built (it seems). Hinagu has been slowly turning to concrete over the last 50 years and has lost some appeal. There is the Kodayaki pottery closer to the mountain if that's of interest. The onsen water has cooled down in recent years and needs a gas fired boost. It's hard to imagine that this town was the premier honeymoon site in Japan 100 years ago and was filled with geisha. There's a bit left but not much. I think the last geisha retired about 1980.
by Anaguma (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: 25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/8 17:24
Ignoring the question on the driving since i have not personally driven in mountainous snow roads, though i have been in the passenger seat of one in a country with the other hand drive...

I would answer the following question:
The scene of Takachiho is just so irresistible.. really, how nice is it still in winter I wonder?

I was there in winter. It is nice. But i heard it is nicer in autumn. Summer is fine too. Winter is too cold! Also, I cannot imagine you asking the oldies to peddle their own boats. (Two to three seater boats with a large oar)
There are also other places in Asia, there have more beautiful gorges. You might want to give Takachiho a miss if the main point is to visit the gorge.
Takachiho jinja is nice to visit but isn't worth the three hours ride to get there from Kumamoto. (Or the coach from Nobeoka)
by jh (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: 25 days in Kyushu itinerary review 2016/1/8 17:51
P.S.
Yufuin has a nice old town feel that Beppu that does not have. Beppu is by the sea and has been commercialized. Although there are no skyscrapers you can tell that it is very tourist centric (shops, mega resorts, comprehensive buses). Yufuin although targeting tourist still retains the atmosphere of relaxation and traditional japan. I would prefer Yufuin over Beppu.

Kurokawa is nested between mountains and is good for autumn sights. But as for comparison with Yufuin, I watched a TV programme where the host said that as Uni undergrads the poorer students will choose Kurokawa.
by jh (guest) rate this post as useful

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