The Iya Valley (‘c’JŒk, Iyakei) is a secluded, mountainous valley along the Iya River in western Tokushima Prefecture. Its steep forested slopes are connected to the outside world by a winding, sometimes unbelievably narrow mountain road that navigates the valley. While the deeper parts of the Iya Valley may be difficult to access, this remoteness is what draws visitors to the area to experience a traditional, rural culture that is difficult to find in modern Japan.
Historically the Iya Valley has been a difficult place to enter and has long served as a refuge for members of the defeated Taira Clan (also known as Heike) who escaped to the region toward the end of the 12th century after losing the Gempei War (1180-1185). Their descendants can still be found around the tiny mountain villages that dot the region.
A rural mountain farmhouse in the Iya Valley
In more recent times, the Iya Valley has been promoted by Alex Kerr, author of "Lost Japan", who fell in love with the area after a visit in 1971. He bought and restored an old farmhouse, Chiiori, which is now operated as a lodging to introduce people to traditional Japanese life. Kerr was later also involved in opening up an entire collection of restored traditional homes, known as the Togenkyo Iya, as tourist lodgings in a village along the steep valley.
The Iya Valley is commonly divided into two areas. Nishi Iya (West Iya) around the entrance to the valley is slightly more developed and more accessible with relatively frequent buses to some of the major attractions. Oku Iya (Inner Iya, also called Higashi Iya or East Iya) lies further back into the valley and is difficult to reach without a rental car or other means of private transportation. The following attractions are listed relative to their location within the valley.
Nishi Iya
Manikin Peeing Boy Statue
At the edge of this dizzying, 200 meter high cliff stands the statue of a boy posed as if he were peeing off the ledge down to the valley bellow. The statue is located at a beautiful scenic spot a few steps from The Iya Onsen Hotel, where local folklore says passing travelers would climb out to pee off as a testament to their bravery. A railing discourages visitors from attempting this dangerous act today.
Iya Onsen Hotel
Daytime Hours: 7:00 to 18:00 (entry until 17:00) Daytime Admission: 1,700 yen (including baths and cablecar) Overnight Stay: from 18,000 yen per person including 2 meals
The Iya Onsen Hotel is perched high up on the steep slope overlooking the Iya Valley. The hotel's outdoor hot spring baths are located along the river some 170 meters below the hotel itself and are connected to the upper buildings by a steep cable car. The bath water is a lukewarm 39 degrees Celsius.
Shin-Iya Onsen Hotel Kazurabashi
Daytime Hours: 10:30 to 16:00 Daytime Admission: 1,200 yen Overnight Stay: from 17,000 yen per person including 2 meals
Shin-Iya Onsen's Hotel Kazurabashi has three outdoor baths, one for each gender as well as a mixed gender bath, that offer nice views out over the Iya Valley. The baths are found high up on the mountainside above the hotel and can be accessed by a short cable car ride.
Hours: 8:00 to 18:00 (Apr-Jun) 7:30 to 18:30 (Jul-Aug) 8:00 to 17:00 (Sep-Mar) Closed: No closing days Admission: 550 yen
In the past, 13 suspension bridges constructed of mountain vines served as the main means of crossing the Iya River. Only three such bridges still exist, of which Iya Kazurabashi is the largest and most easily accessible. The 45 meters long bridge stretches 14 meters above the river and is reinforced with hidden steel cables for safety.
Oku Iya
Higashi Iya History and Folk Museum
Hours: 10:00 to 16:00 Closed: Wednesdays, weekends/holidays from Dec to Feb, New Year holidays Admission: 410 yen
The Higashi Iya History and Folk Museum is a small history museum at the entrance to Oku Iya. Inside you will find exhibits and displays of tools, household items, clothes and other traditional items.
Samurai House
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 Closed: December to March Admission: 310 yen
This restored samurai residence high up in the valley's steep slope is the former home of the Kita Clan, local leaders. It displays a set of samurai armor, as well as tools and implements necessary for daily life in the remote village. A rental car is recommended to access the house, as the nearest bus stop is about a 45 minute walk away.
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (Apr-Jun and Sep-Nov) 8:00 to 18:00 (Jul-Aug) Closed: December to March Admission: 550 yen
Two more vine bridges stand side by side deep in the Iya Valley near Mount Tsurugi. Dubbed the husband and wife bridges, the taller and longer bridge is the Otto no Hashi (husband bridge), and the slightly smaller one is the Tsuma no Hashi (wife bridge). Near the wife bridge is a wooden cable cart used for transporting goods across the river.
Mount Tsurugi (1955 meters) stands at the far end of the Iya Valley. Visitors can take a chairlift most of the way up the mountain to a station from where it is an easy 30 minute hike to the summit.
Getting there and around
Nishi Iya is accessible by buses from Awa Ikeda Station (one bus every 2-3 hours) and Oboke Station (one bus every 1-2 hours). Some buses operate as far as Kubo in Oku Iya, where travelers can transfer to a bus further into the valley. The Oku-Iya Kazurabashi Bridges and Mount Tsurugi are served only on weekends and during peak seasons from April to November.
A rental car is recommended, especially for visiting the less traveled Oku Iya area. Note that the roads are very narrow and have frequent blind curves, which make driving both hazardous and slow. A few rental outlets are available around Oboke and Awa-Ikeda stations.
An onsen ryokan commanding Iya Valley. Enjoy new bath with amazing view and riverside bath 170m down by cable car. Free shuttle to/from JR Oboke Sta. Wi-Fi available.
