Gunkanjima is a small island located about 20 kilometers from Nagasaki Port. Until 1974, the island served as a coal mine, and more than 5000 residents called the 480 meter long, 150 meter wide island home, resulting in the highest population density in history recorded worldwide.
To accommodate so many people in such a small area, every piece of land was built up so that the island came to resemble a massive battleship. In fact, "Gunkanjima" is a nickname that means "battleship island" in Japanese. The island's formal name is Hashima.
Coal was first discovered on Gunkanjima in 1810 by the feudal lord of Saga. Industrial mining began in the late 1800s, and soon after, the island was purchased by the Mitsubishi Corporation. As production increased, the island was expanded, and large residential and industrial buildings and high sea walls were constructed.
Managers, workers and their families all called the little island home. The residents of the island were able to live out a more or less typical life. Half of the island was devoted to the workings of the mine, the other to residential space, schools, restaurants, shops, a public bath and a hospital.
In April 1974, the mine was closed, and its residents had to leave Gunkanjima, abandoning the island with all its buildings. Over the years since then, direct exposure to typhoons has caused the residences and mining facilities to deteriorate, giving the island an eerie and haunting atmosphere. Due to the danger of collapsing structures, Gunkanjima was closed to the public, and for many years could only be seen from sightseeing cruises that circled the island.
In April 2009, however, a newly constructed boat dock and three observation decks in a small part on the southern edge of the island made it possible for sightseeing boats to land on Gunkanjima. Boat tours depart from the Nagasaki Port Ferry Terminal, taking about one hour each way to travel to the island and back. The tours are the only (legal) way to land on the island.
After landing on Gunkanjima, visitors are taken to the three observation decks and spend about 10-15 minutes at each location, while tour guides give explanations in Japanese. Unfortunately, there is no information available in English. The tour does not involve getting too close to the buildings, because of their dilapidated condition and the risk of collapse.
The boat ride itself is also enjoyable. Large Mitsubishi ship building factories can be seen along the way, as well as other islands, and the city of Nagasaki itself from the water. Because there are only a few tours per day, it is recommended to make reservations beforehand, especially for trips on weekends and holidays. Reservations can be made by calling the boat tour operator (095-822-5002).
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