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Three more workshops keeping Kurume Kasuri, one of Japan’s traditional textiles, alive

Part 2 - Family traditions passed down thread by thread, an hour from Hakata Station

Showing how the indigo dyeing process is done at Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura

Raina Ong Staff Writer,
japan-guide.com

This is part two of my two-article series on Kurume Kasuri, a traditional Japanese textile from Fukuoka Prefecture in Kyushu, and three more family-run workshops, where visitors can tour and get an insight into this traditional craft. See this page to read the first article and get a more detailed explanation of Kurume Kasuri and its production process.

Kurume Kasuri was designated an Intangible Cultural Property of Japan in 1957, and recognized as a traditional craft in 1975. Once produced by hundreds of businesses, the craft is now kept alive by around 20 workshops and factories, mostly in Hirokawa Town and Chikugo City. Each carries forward knowledge passed down through generations, serving as a labor of love and an outlet for creativity.

A bundle of yarn tied according to the pattern before it is dyed (kukuri process) at Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura
Display showing how kukuri works at Marugame Kasuri Orimono
Inside the workshop floor at Nomura Orimono

Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura

The smallest of the three workshops, Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura is a family-run, three person team. The elder Yamamura-san is the fourth generation Kurume Kasuri artisan, while his son is the fifth generation. The business is known for producing high quality Japanese indigo-dyed fabric with beautiful hues. A visit to their workshop shows how yarn is still hand dyed the traditional way.

It is clear that a great deal of thought goes into where and how the indigo-dyed threads are placed to create patterns that appear alive and three-dimensional.

Yamamura-san talking about his craft and story, which was very interesting to hear about
Rolls of beautiful aizome Kurume Kasuri cloth

During my visit to Aizome Kasuri Kobo, I had the opportunity to speak with the elder Yamamura-san and see his craft in action, from dyeing the bundles of kukuri yarn to working the pedal loom to weave an original pattern. Seeing parts of the process firsthand gave me a greater appreciation for the amount of work that goes into each roll of fabric.

How to get to Aizome Kasuri Kobo

Address: 241 Naganobu, Hirokawa-machi, Yame-gun, Fukuoka Prefecture
Access: 25 minutes by taxi from JR Hainuzuka Station or 20 minutes by taxi from JR Nishimuta Station

Yamamura-san working the pedal loom
Looks so good from here already
A vat of indigo dye
Yamamura-san dyeing bundles of yarn in a vat of indigo dye
Bundles of dyed yarn changing color upon contact with air

Marugame Kasuri Orimono

When Marugame Kasuri Orimono was founded in 1860, it was the only kasuri workshop in the area. Today, fifth generation artisan Marugame-san runs the business. The patterns and designs at Marugame Kasuri Orimono are all original, and there is always a reason and story behind each one. Pattern design is the focus here, and some designs were made specifically for the end products, usually clothing.

Interestingly, the patchwork designs that have become a characteristic of Marugame clothes were born out of scarcity and necessity. The business was hit by a devastating fire in 2012, forcing the company to salvage whatever materials it could to continue operating. This crisis gave rise to the patchwork style, which has since become a signature of Marugame Kasuri Orimono clothing.

Marugame-san talking about his award-winning pattern, which was about re-imagining possibilities when it comes to simple patterns
Marugame's signature patchwork design

Marugame Kasuri Orimono operates a shop and gallery in a renovated agricultural warehouse, located just a short walk from its factory. I was charmed by the furnishings, which were repurposed Kasuri weaving tools, plus a vintage loom on display, the kind still used in factories today. Then, in the gallery on the second floor, I saw an artisan working on selective dyeing (tsumami-zome). I had the opportunity to give it a go, and I am pleased to say that I contributed to a small portion of the cloth. If only I knew which roll it ended up in....

How to get to Marugame Kasuri Orimono

Address: (TATEYOKO たてよこ STORE+LABO) 90-2 Hiyoshi, Hirokawa-machi, Yame-gun, Fukuoka Prefecture
Access: 20 minutes by taxi from JR Hainuzuka Station or 15 minutes by taxi from JR Nishimuta Station

A vintage power loom on display for visitors to inspect up close
Individual threads separated
Splitting the bundles of dyed weft yarn into their individual shuttles
Some of Marugame's characteristic designs made into monpe pants

Nomura Orimono

Established in 1898, Nomura Orimono has always been a kasuri manufacturer, mostly producing kasuri textiles for businesses, rather than the end consumer. Over 50 percent of the cloth produced at Nomura Orimono is made to order, and the workshop produces around 50-70 designs a year.

At Nomura Orimono, every stage is done in-house except the kukuri process, in which the yarn is tied according to the pattern. A major strength of the workshop is its control over color blending during the dyeing process, allowing it to produce a wide variety of colors and combinations based on clients' requests. For example, if the warp threads (those that run lengthwise) are black, this affects how the colors of the weft threads (those that run crosswise) appear. The process becomes even more complicated when patterns and color gradients are introduced. Fourth generation owner Nomura-san is in charge of the dyeing process, ensuring that each batch comes out according to plan.

Nomura-san in front of an impressive rack of Kurume Kasuri fabric from his workshop
An example of color blending

Beyond the uniformity and consistency of the colors, it was clear from the rolls of finished cloth that there was a high level of precision to the patterns. While the distinctive blurred look of ikat remains, even the most complicated patterns had a very clean and precise appearance.

How to get to Nomura Orimono

Address: 1745 Niishiro, Hirokawa-machi, Yame-gun, Fukuoka Prefecture
Access: 5 minute walk from Kawaze bus stop (about 35 minutes one way from JR Kurume Station; 2-4 Nishitetsu buses/hour).

  • Book a workshop tour at Nomura Orimono.
  • Find out more about Nomura Orimono and its workshop tour on the official Visit Fukuoka website

Dyed bundles of yarn hung out to dry
This cloth looks almost multicolored
Many steps are still done by hand
You can see the pattern on the warp on the left
Clean and even color gradient

Where to stay and what to do

Centrally located in Yame City's historical district, Craft Inn Te is a small boutique hotel consisting of only two rooms, each furnished with local Kyushu crafts to give guests a first hand experience of the region's craftsmanship. Guests can also sign up for a variety of activities offered by the accommodation, from walking tours in the surrounding historical district to tea experiences in the tea fields of Yame, to indigo dyeing or creating something with Kurume Kasuri cloth. Dinner is not provided at Craft Inn Te, but since the accommodation is located in central Yame, there are plenty of dining options nearby. It is also a good excuse to explore the area on foot, and get to know Yame at an intimate level.

Exterior of Craft Inn Te on the left
Simple but luxurious room; indigo dyed Kasuri tapestry from Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura as decoration
The dining area with decoration pieces related to Kurume Kasuri and indigo dyeing. The low table is also indigo dyed, very cool!
Breakfast at Craft Inn Te
Reception and shop area at Craft Inn Te
Craft Inn Te room wear monpe on the left, my perfect traveling monpe on the right
Walking around the historical district around Craft Inn Te
Lots of nice buildings in the area housing tea shops, Buddhist altar makers and straw mat makers.
As quaint as this area looks, I am reminded that regular people live and work here too

Ten minutes on foot from Craft Inn Te is Unagi no Nedoko, a lifestyle shop that specializes in monpe - a traditional but simple pair of pants. Monpe started as workwear for farming or outdoor work that became popular as womenswear. The pants were typically worn over a shorter kimono, and were much easier to move around in and do outdoor work.

Monpe fell out of fashion when Western clothes became commonplace, but Unagi no Nedoko has worked to revive these simple pants by combining them with Kurume Kasuri. After trying on multiple pairs of monpe and getting comfortable with them, I was convinced that monpe are actually the perfect pair of traveling pants. In fact, monpe checked all my criteria for traveling: lightweight, durable, breathable, resistant to looking too wrinkled, easy to move in and presentable. Needless to say, I got myself a pair of Kurume Kasuri monpe, and it will definitely be one of my travel staples.

Exterior of Unagi no Nedoko. There is a coffee shop inside too
So many monpe made out of different textiles and designs
Monpe! Monpe! Monpe!

How to get to and around Yame and Hirokawa

Hainuzuka Station on the JR Kagoshima Line is the most convenient station when traveling by train. There are three train options:

  • Fastest option: take the bullet train from Hakata to Kurume, then transfer to the JR Kagoshima Line and get off at Hainuzuka Station (35 minutes with a good connection)
  • Convenient option: take the direct rapid train bound for Hainuzuka from Hakata Station (50-55 minutes one way)
  • Alternative: from Hakata Station, take a limited express train in the direction of Takeo Onsen or Sasebo, then get off at Tosu and transfer to a local or rapid train to Hainuzuka Station (about 45 minutes one way)

Central Yame can be reached in about 20 minutes by frequent local buses or taxis from JR Hainuzuka Station. Craft Inn Te is located in central Yame, but not any of the workshops in this article.

Marugame Kasuri Orimono, Nomura Orimono and Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura are all about a 15-minute drive north of central Yame, and are about 5 minutes by car from one another. Detailed access information and addresses for each workshop can be found in their respective sections.