Nicola's Japanese Travels
by Nicola, staff writer of japan-guide.com

 
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Tsutentaku Tower at the center of Shinsekai

Shinsekai holds a special place in my heart. When I arrived in Japan for the first time, I headed directly from the Kansai International Airport to a discount hotel I had booked online. It was in Shinsekai, just a few hundred meters from Osaka's JR Tennoji Station. At that time, I hadn't heard of Shinsekai's reputation for being seedy, old, and even dangerous. And I'm very glad I didn't, because exploring the area on that first weekend in Japan was a fantastic introduction.

Shinsekai is now centered around Tsutenkaku Tower, a 1956 reconstruction of the original. The whole area, including the tower, grew out of empty field and farmland. The area housed a few fair grounds towards the turn of the century and then it became the site of the National Industrial Exposition in 1903, a huge event which brought about 5 million people through the area in just 5 months. This spurred development and by 1912, construction on Tsutenkaku Tower was finished.

Historical photographs and "love locks" in the Shinsekai arcade

Unfortuntly, Shinsekai's glory days passed as rapidly as its development. Tsutenkaku Tower was scraped during World War II and the area suffered a few destructive fires from which it never quite recovered. In recent years, Shinsekai has fared a little better. It's now known for its large population of homeless men, its budget accommodations and its lively night-time atmosphere.

One of Shinsekai's short shopping streets

After recently revisiting the area, I still found each of these generalizations to be valid: Shinsekai (especially Tennoji Park), has a large community of homeless people. The area's hotels and inns are remarkably inexpensive, (especially by Japan's standards), and evenings in Shinsekai are a riot of neon lights and restaurant activity. Its reputation for being dangerous however, is unfounded, at least in my experience.

Restaurant lights come out at dusk

The highlight of Shinsekai is, without a doubt, the vibrant neon nights. Though many of the area's restaurants advertise 24 hour service, things only really come alive after dark. At this time, the street's fill up with diners in search of a few sticks of kushi katsu.

Kushi katsu

Kushi katsu are skewers of meat and vegetables, which have been battered, breaded and deep fried. They are usually quite inexpensive, although some of the more exotic kushi katsu like oyster, cheese or fruit are a little pricier. The sticks are dipped in a communal dish of sauce and eaten right off the stick. Sometimes a dish of plain cabbage is served alongside, I suppose as a way to break up all that deep fried food.

Shinsekai may not be to everyone's liking, but it will certainly be popular with those who enjoy a bargain. Nearby Shitennoji Temple is another nice sightseeing spot in the area, while Shinsekai's own Spa World onsen (hot spring) facility is a fun attraction as well.

Shinsekai's restaurants, many featuring Kushi katsu

 
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