Sam's Japan Travel Journal
by Sam, staff writer of

previous post
list all posts
next post

2017/07/27 - On the road in Tohoku: Driving through Miyagi and Yamagata

Located in the Tohoku region in the north of Japan's main island of Honshu, Miyagi and Yamagata are two prefectures which are certainly not visited as often as other areas of the country, including the ever-popular areas surrounding Tokyo and Kyoto. Despite this, these two prefectures boast some of the most amazing sites in the country and are brimming with majestic mountains, hot springs and stunning nature spots.

Being a vast territory of remote towns along rugged and winding roads, the way to get the most out of this area is to travel by car, with car rental outlets being present near many of the region's bigger train stations. With this in mind I packed my bags, picked up a car and began my journey to experience the mystique of Miyagi and Yamagata.

The first stop on my journey was at Zao Fox Village in Miyagi Prefecture. Foxes are revered in Japanese culture as messengers of the gods with thousands of shrines across the country featuring fox statues. Here at the fox village hundreds of the cuddly canines roam the spacious grounds, and visitors can get up close and feed them from the safety of an elevated platform. There's even the chance to hold and have photos taken with a few of the village's tamest residents, making this place a must visit place for any fox lovers in the area.

From the fox village I drove into the mountains, taking the Echo Line, a winding road with inspiring vistas. I was on my way to see Okama Crater, the most unique feature of Mount Zao. An active volcano with a dazzling crater lake, Okama is named for its resemblance to a traditional Japanese cooking pot. I arrived at Mount Kattadake, where I parked up and took a short hike to get the best views of the adjacent crater. Visibility was poor at first but luckily the fog soon dissipated, allowing for magnificent views of the crater.

Following Okama, it was back on the road to descend the mountain into the quaint Yamagata town of Zao Onsen. This small hot spring town has been a popular destination among travelers for many centuries, boasting some of the most acidic waters in the country. Today the town is dotted with traditional bath houses, and, due to its location on the mountain slopes, serves as one of the country's premier ski destinations come winter.

I spent the afternoon exploring the town's meandering streets and soaking in some of its baths, all the while working up an appetite to finish the day with a meal of succulent Yamagata Beef and local vegetables cooked on a traditional-style hotplate.

The next morning I rose early and made my way to the town's main attraction; the spectacular Dai-Rotemburo (big outdoor bath). This pristine gem of a bath is perfectly placed atop a slope above the town and is surrounded by lush forest. Arriving as the bath opened allowed me to have it to myself, and I basked in the warm waters whilst watching steam rise off the surface into the cool morning air. Among the most tranquil onsen experiences I've had the pleasure of, the Dai-Rotemburo is a must do when in these parts.

All bathed and energized, I once again pottered around the town, taking a dip in some of its other baths before saying goodbye to Zao Onsen. It was now time to make the approximately 90-minute journey through mountains and valleys to another of Yamagata Prefecture's most celebrated spots; Ginzan Onsen.

Located in the mountains at the site of an old silver mine, Ginzan Onsen has an interesting history, although these days is more famous for its springs than its silver. The town's picturesque main street winds through a narrow valley and is lined with stunning buildings that house public baths, ryokan (Japanese inns) and restaurants. As well as historical institutions such as the Notoya Ryokan, the town also possesses a touch of the modern, with a couple of the town's buildings being the work of famous architect, Kuma Kengo.

I spent the afternoon roaming around the town and made the short hike up the hill behind the town to the old silver mine. One of the old shafts is open to the public and illuminated, making for some interesting and otherworldly sights. Following my subterranean experience, I checked into the Notoya, where I was treated to a traditional Japanese meal featuring Yamagata beef shabu shabu, in which raw slices of the meat are dipped into hot broth as a method of cooking. Delicious!

The next morning I ate a traditional Japanese breakfast before taking one last dip in the ryokan's bath. My time in Ginzan Onsen had come to an end and it was time to make the hour drive to Yamadera, a celebrated mountain temple and centuries-old religious center. The temple was founded around 1200 years ago, and is renowned not just for its religious significance and general beauty, but also as the place where Basho, the famous Japanese poet, wrote one of his most famous haiku poems.

Upon arrival at Yamadera, I made the half-hour hike through the temple's steep, mountain-side grounds to the higher levels, from which spectacular views can be had of the adjacent valley and mountains. Vistas aside, I was impressed by the temple's serene atmosphere, and I arrived back at the bottom of the mountain feeling mentally and spiritually revitalized, if physically a little short of breath from the hike.

The penultimate stop on my journey was Momijigawa Gorge near the Yamagata-Miyagi border; the drive to which took me along a narrow road that climbed through dense forest. Upon arriving and descending into the gorge I was immediately taken with the beauty of the landscape: a pristine natural world of waterfalls, smooth boulders and steep, verdant hill sides, all flanking the crystal-clear river. A crude path takes hikers along the river, but at times traversing the territory can be challenging, making it a place for strong walkers only.

The final leg of my journey saw me at Akiutaki Falls back over in Miyagi Prefecture. At 55 meters high and six meters wide, this powerful waterfall is regarded as one of Japan's most beautiful, and visitors are fortunately able to get close to it for some impressive photo opportunities. I made the short hike from the road and took in the falls' majesty. My trip had come to an end, and so exhilarated and inspired by all I'd seen over the past few days, I headed back to the car.


previous post
list all posts
next post

List of Posts:
2019/07/10 - Tokyo 2020 Summer Games Venues
2019/05/09 - Setouchi Triennale 2019
2019/03/14 - Mito Plum Blossom Report
2018/11/12 - Scandinavian-themed complex opens its doors
2018/10/25 - Kofukuji's Central Golden Hall open to the public
2018/10/13 - Toyosu Market Opens to the Public
2018/01/26 - Mt. Fuji World Heritage Center Opens

2017/12/31 - Travel Highlights 2017
2017/12/04 - Exploring Japan's Tea Town
2017/11/10 - Exploring the Galapagos of the East
2017/10/16 - Getting lost in rural Japan
2017/07/27 - On the road in Tohoku: Driving through Miyagi and Yamagata
2017/06/22 - Mount Shirane reopens for exploration
2017/05/30 - Exploring Nikko
2017/04/27 - Wisteria Watching at Ashikaga Flower Park
2017/04/24 - Nemophila flowers at Hitachi Seaside Park
2017/02/21 - Tokyo Early Spring Update
2017/02/16 - Renovations start at Kiyomizudera's main hall
2017/02/09 - Crane Watching in Kushiro
2017/02/07 - 2017 Asahikawa Winter Festival
2017/02/06 - 2017 Otaru Snow Light Path Festival
2017/02/06 - 2017 Sapporo Snow Festival
2017/01/16 - Early Blooming in Atami

2016/12/31 - Travel Highlights 2016
2016/09/13 - Walking the Roots of Japan
2016/07/28 - Hakone Update
2016/04/26 - Tonami Tulip Fair 2016
2016/04/19 - Kyoto Railway Museum