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October 22, 2015 - Off the beaten path: Kagoshima to Osumi-peninsula

After my previous visit to Japan I wanted to see something new away from the tourist traps. Since I love the view and sound from the ocean and planning to visit Kagoshima, the idea of renting a car and exploring the Osumi-peninsula came in mind.

It is apparently possible to visit the area by public transport but with limited possibilities.

For anyone atempting this I would certainly recommend to stop a night or two along the way as there are a lot of things to see, other than those mentioned in this journal.

My journey started around 7 in the early morning by picking up my rental Toyota car not far from the hotel of the night. The GPS brought me all the way to the ferry terminal and was swiftly waved onboard the Sakurajima ferry that crosses the strait to the huge Sakurajima volcano.

A bowl of soba turned into my breakfast and I stocked up on water and snacks from the onboard shop before entering volcanic land about 15 minutes later.

On the eastern side of Sakurajima is the "entrance" to the eastern part of Kagoshima prefecture, as well as the road to the Kurokami Shrine Gate which became my first stop along the journey.

The shrine gate was covered in lava halfway up during the 1914 eruption. The parking lot near the gate cost a 100 yen that was to be put in a box. The parking lot itself was noticably covered in dark lava sand.

Onward south crossing the land of lava that had turned Sakurajima from an island to a peninsula in a previous eruption. Stopping near the city of Tarumizu where another ferry crosses the Kagoshima bay to the south of Kagoshima city.

Through Tarumizu I made a detour to visit the Sarukejo forest valley located about 7 km east of Tarumizu. The GPS suprisinlgy pointed me across a narrow unpaved road between two fields that were fortunately dry enough to cross.

Near the valley was a road station-like area with a hot spring, rest house and a shop.

After admiring the quiet river passing the rocks and the spiders hanging from huge webs in the trees I made my way back to Tarumizu and south for a couple of kilometers before stopping by a small beach shrine named Arahira-tenjin.

The tide was low at the moment but I couldn't help imagining the view of the area during flood.

I had intended to visit the nearby Kanoya rose garden but the fine weather must have filled all the parking lots so that visit had to pass this time.

Instead, I went on to a place inland called Airasan-joryo, which was a grave of some sort for the parents of emperor Jinmu. The are had gave a really mysterious and sacred impression.

Yet another detour for about 20 kilometers brought me back toward the ocean side until stopping at the Kamikawa-otaki falls for quite a late lunch break. High above the restaurant building was a long suspension bridge that could be reached by a series of steps and a short walk through a forest path.

The Otaki falls could be viewed from here as well as some spiders waiting for their time of lunch break.

Finally reaching the west coast of Osumi-peninsula again I headed south for a few kilometers passing through the town of Minami-Osumi until reaching Ohama-kaigan beach resort with a stretch of sand beach by the parking lot, presenting a beautiful view of the ocean and a blurred view of the eastern coast of Satsuma-sendai-peninsula.

No time for a quick dip in the pool so on the road again for yet another 15 or so kilometers passing the final (?) possibility of grocery shopping in Sata Izashiki. By that also leaving the main road for a more twisty stretch of roads for 10 kilometers of driving.

After what felt like endless driving I turned right onto the final twists of Sata-Misaki Road park until finally arriving at the parking outside near cape Sata. One must be warned there are quite a lot of macaque monkeys roaming along the roadside. Keep the speed and take your time to avoid hitting one on the way to the cape.

I was not the lone visitor but as the time was close to 16.00 in the afternoon I suspected more visitors might have already been here already.

To reach the cape itself a pedestrian tunnel had to be crossed. Earlier there was a fee to be paid to enter the tunnel but not anymore.

Past the tunnel waited an amazing adventure to palm trees and jungle-like vegetation. A simple map at the tunnel exit and some signs guided me to the Sata shrine where I bought myself a protection charm for the return journey back to Kagoshima.

As I went on the concrete paths through the area I noticed the wind had picked up a lot since leaving Kagoshima. Apparently an approaching typhoon made sure to notice me on a possible future landfall.

On the path to the southern end of the cape remnants of the late lookout building could be seen. From the remaining lookout area the nearby lighthouse could be seen. Unfortunately it could not be visited by foot so it's mysterious appearance had to be left... mysterious.

Back to the car after an hour of exploring I made my way to the A-Coop store in Sata Izashiki shopping something for a light dinner and then heading back all the way to the ferry terminal in Sakurajima.

When passing the town Minami-Osumi the sun had just passed the horizon. Unfortunately the GPS took me on an unintended detour halfway up the mountains before realizing I was way out of the intended road.

However, I managed to reach the ferry and return to the rental shop returning the car without the hassle of finding a parking lot in the dark evening.

As for some more ideas of exploring, I would recommend heading further east from the Osumi-peninsula as there is said to be a rocket launch base in the area (Uchinoura Space Center).

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List of Posts:
2015/10/22 - Off the beaten path: Kagoshima to Osumi-peninsula
2015/10/21 - Kaimon-dake, reaching for heaven
2015/10/17 - Nightly adventures, night train from Izumo to Tokyo
2013/10/04 - Finding Ponyo in Tomo-no-Ura
2013/10/03 - Nara with Wakakusayama