Sekigahara

Site of Japan’s most famous samurai battle
#209 of 209 most visited in Japan

Sekigahara (関ケ原) is a small town in the southwest of Gifu Prefecture, and the site of a major battle fought on October 21, 1600 between forces loyal to the warlord Tokugawa Ieyasu (the "eastern army") and a coalition of his enemies led by Ishida Mitsunari (the "western army"). The battle had a significant impact on Japanese history, leading to the beginning of the Tokugawa Shogunate which would rule a unified Japan for the next two and a half centuries.

Today, the rural town offers a pleasant half- or full-day stop for travelers with an interest in Japanese history. In addition to the excellent memorial museum, there are numerous sites connected to the famous battle, which can be explored on foot or by bicycle. The museum provides maps with a variety of themed model courses.

Back in 1600, the battle was fought on a single day: Mitsunari's forces took up a defensive position in the hills to the west, while the Tokugawa army approached from the east. Despite outnumbering his enemy, Mitsunari was an unpopular leader. Ieyasu meanwhile had also courted Mitsunari's allies, offering land and titles to those willing to defect. After a direct attack by the Tokugawa forces, fighting quickly ground to a stalemate. Ultimately however, the western army's frontline collapsed when several of its own commanders switched sides, granting decisive victory to Tokugawa.

Our video about the Battle of Sekigahara

Located a 5-10 minute walk from the train station, the Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is the perfect place to learn more about the battle. Spread across five stories, the excellent museum introduces the lead-up to the battle through an innovative top down display, and the story of the battle itself with a 9-minute animated video shown in an immersive 360-degree theater room complete with motion and atmospheric effects.

Visitors can also take in reconstructed and original exhibits in three exhibition rooms, have their picture taken in samurai outfits and get a commanding view of the surrounding battlefield from the top floor observation deck.

The museum's exterior is made to resemble a samurai battle camp

Other notable sites

Spread across the hills and fields of Sekigahara are many places of interest related to the battle, including the encampments of generals and various memorials. Below is a selection of some of the more relevant and interesting among them:

  • Battle site memorial
    10 minute walk north of the museum
    Decorated with banners bearing the Tokugawa and Ishida family crests, this monument marks the approximate midpoint of the battlefield. From here, visitors can get a clear sense of the surrounding landscape.
  • Tokugawa Ieyasu's encampment
    Right behind the museum
    In the later stages of the battle, Tokugawa Ieyasu moved his command post from a nearby mountain to this position in the back of today's memorial museum. In the aftermath of the battle, Ieyasu received his generals here and ceremonially viewed the heads of notable enemy dead.
  • Ishida Mitsunari's encampment
    15-20 minute walk northwest of the museum
    Mitsunari placed himself and his troops at this strong defensive position with a panoramic view of the field. Despite successfully repelling attacks early in the battle, Mitsunari was forced to flee the field and captured shortly afterwards.
  • Okayama signaling ground
    15-20 minute walk northeast of the museum
    Early on the morning of the battle, the summit of this hill was occupied by two of Ieyasu's generals. At 8am, the battle began here with the lighting of a large beacon.
  • Battle commencement memorial
    15 minutes west of the museum
    This monument marks the spot where Ii Naomasa, one of Ieyasu's elite generals, led an initial charge against the western army's front line, drawing first blood and beginning the battle in earnest.
  • Ukita Hideie's encampment
    30 minutes west of the museum
    The deputy general of the western army, Ukita was positioned here with his troops. They initially fought well against the Tokugawa army but were crushed when several western generals switched sides. Ukita fled the field and lived out the rest of his life in exile.
  • Otani Yoshitsugu's encampment and grave
    45 minutes west of the museum
    A longtime friend and associate of Ishida Mitsunari, Otani Yoshitsugu commanded his troop from this encampment. At the conclusion of the battle, his force came under attack both from the enemy and turncoats, and he committed suicide.
  • Eastern and western head mounds
    5 and 15 minutes south of the museum
    In total, around 30,000 troops are estimated to have been killed in the battle. In the immediate aftermath, their heads were gathered together at these two sites and memorials erected. Services in honor of the fallen continue to be given here to this day.

Getting there and around

How to get to Sekigahara

Sekigahara Station is located on the JR Tokaido Main Line, approximately 20 kilometers east of Maibara Station and 50 kilometers northwest of Nagoya.

From Tokyo and Nagoya

Take the JR Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagoya (100 minutes), from where Sekigahara is a 50 minute train ride along the JR Tokaido Main Line. Some connections between Nagoya and Sekigahara are direct, while others require a transfer at Ogaki along the way. The entire journey costs around 12,000 yen one way from Tokyo and 990 yen from Nagoya.

From Kyoto and Osaka

Shin-Osaka, Kyoto and Maibara stations are connected by multiple Hikari and Kodama trains per hour along the JR Tokaido Shinkansen. From Maibara, take a train along the JR Tokaido Main Line to Sekigahara (20 minutes). The entire one way journey takes about one hour and around 5,000 yen from Osaka, and about 50 minutes and around 3,000 yen from Kyoto. Alternatively, the journey can be made for about half that price by local and rapid trains with one transfer at Maibara. Travel time increases by 20-30 minutes.

How to get around Sekigahara

The Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is a ten minute walk northwest of Sekigahara Station. The surrounding battle-related sites can be fully explored in a full day on foot, or more easily in the space of a few hours with rental bicycles available at the station and museum. Four hours cost 660 yen for regular bikes or 1210 yen for e-bikes.

Hours and Fees

Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum

Hours

9:30 to 17:00 (entry until 16:30)

Closed

Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a national holiday)
December 29 to January 3.

Admission

500 yen

Questions? Ask in our forum.

Links and Resources

English

Japanese

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