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First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/29 21:34
Hi all,

My partner and I (in our thirties, from the Netherlands) have been planning to go to Japan now, for eight years and it's finally happening coming spring!

We would like to combine nature & cities and see some of the cherry blossom.

Below, you can find the itinerary that we've put together and we would love to get your input - we haven't booked our tickets so are still slightly flexible.

Additional information on the following would also be much appreciated:
- a good onsen on the way we should visit
- a hike that you would recommend
- day trips or stops on the way

Thanks a lot in advance!

The itinerary (by train):

21-3-2023 0 Amsterdam - Tokyo
22-3-2023 1 Tokyo
23-3-2023 2 Tokyo
24-3-2023 3 Tokyo
25-3-2023 4 Tokyo
26-3-2023 5 Tokyo
27-3-2023 6 Tokyo - Kanazawa
28-3-2023 7 Kanazawa
29-3-2023 8 Kanazawa - Shirakawa-Go
30-3-2023 9 Shirakawa-Go - Takayama
31-3-2023 10 Takayama (rent a car to explore the surroundings?)
1-4-2023 11 Takayama - Kyoto (stop along the way?)
2-4-2023 12 Kyoto
3-4-2023 13 Kyoto
4-4-2023 14 Kyoto
5-4-2023 15 Kyoto (Nara daytrip)
6-4-2023 16 Kyoto - Hiroshima (stop at Himeji Castle)
7-4-2023 17 Hiroshima (Miyajima day trip)
8-4-2023 18 Hiroshima - Osaka
9-4-2023 19 Osaka - Tanabe
10-4-2023 20 Kumano Kodo (hike)
11-4-2023 21 Kumano Kodo (hike)
12-4-2023 22 Kumano Kodo - Osaka
13-4-2023 23 Osaka - Amsterdam
by Lotte (guest)  

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/30 07:12
Hi, that looks like a nice trip, assuming that you like cities more than country. You will get to see a bit of country, but nearly all of it would be in the cities.

For a stop between Takayama and Kyoto, I would suggest Hikone (not Hakone). Hikone is on Lake Biwa near Kyoto, it has a nice original castle there and apparently an art museum too that I havent seen yet.

For onsen towns on your route, I would suggest having one of your Tokyo nights become an overnight stay at Hakone. It is a pretty area. We have stayed at Lalaca at Gora, Hakone, which is a modern ryokan (very nice), and also at Fukumuziro which is a short walk from Hakone Yumoto, and that is very traditional (most rooms done have bathrooms inside them). That is spectacular, like a museum.

Otherwise I like Bessho Onsen which would be on your way to Kanazawa, though there isnt much to do there. A lot of the places that you are going will have onsens in the hotels - Kanazawa had nice dark water at Hakuchoro (good, big rooms too), and Hotel Associa at Takayama has extensive onsens, but it is an onsen resort rather than a ryokan, some of the ryokans in town have onsens, we stayed a few times at Tanabe ryokan and it had good baths. Some of the towns near to Takayama are onsen towns, but unfortunately I havent been to them - COVID knocked over that trip.

We stayed at Dormy Inn at Shibuya which had nice baths, and for our forthcoming trips our ryokans in Nara and Kyoto have baths, not sure whether it is onsen water though.


by Lazy Pious (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/30 08:56
If you plan to go to Kamakura from Tokyo, the Kamakura Alps are recommended for hiking. (if the weather is fine)
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3113.html
Northern Hills or Western Hills are recommended, but the stairs at Kenchoji Temple are quite steep. If you go up the stairs, it's not so difficult, but I recommend wearing sneakers or trekking shoes.
Or, although there may be a lot of people, Mt. Takao was also good in Tokyo.
I took the lift up (there is also a cable car) and walked back down.
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3029.html
by haro1210 rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/30 16:56
Thanks a lot for your suggestions Lazy Pious and haro1210 - Hikone looks great and we'll have a look at the Onsens and Kamakura Alps as you suggested.

Lazy Pious, we do realize that it is very city heavy and we would really like to make it a bit more balanced. More nature and more small towns/villages. However we find it difficult to find information on how to do this while using public transport and being on a limited budget.

Any suggestions on including more nature and more small towns / villages into our itinerary are very welcome! We are also open to take out one of the cities to create more time to explore inland.
by Lotte (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/30 18:28
Cheers, what I would do is to just have more overnight stays in easily accessible rural areas.

Eg Hakone (near Tokyo) is really foresty and rustic, but super easy to get to with heaps of accommodation options. So I'd spend a night there.

Kyoto also has parts that are at least close to foresty bits. I quite like Westin Miyako for that, and their japanese rooms are nice, you have access to a walking track up a hill which then gives views over Kyoto.

I'd also try to make your Nara daytrip an overnight stay. Getting out into the park early in the morning is fantastic, Nara is essentially a small city adjacent to a huge park and if you are out early there are only a few joggers around, it is really peaceful. Put it this way, over the years we have stayed in Nara maybe 2 weeks all up, for our trip in Feb next year we are there for 4 nights, just a great place to chill with the deer, really it is the place I missed the most during our COVID enforced absence from Japan.

Other than that, one place I'd try to squeeze in on your route (between Tokyo and Kanazawa) is Karuizawa. That is a nice resort town when the wealthy Tokyo-ites have holiday homes to beat the summer heat. March/April will still be very cold there, maybe snowy. It is pretty trendy for a Japanese town, and on the Shinkansen line, just short of Nagano. There is heaps of good shopping there, and you can walk part of the Nakasendo trail from the top of the shopping street to a lookout which is pretty spectacular, and nearby temple which for some odd reason has a 3 legged crow as its mascot. The dango place next to it is worth the trip, best I've had. For accom in Karuizawa, Tsuruya ryokan (at the start of the trail) is fantastic and really caters well to westerners, lately we have been staying at Le Grand Kyu which is great value for an upmarket hotel.

Karuizawa also has access to a really famous onsen town, Kusatsu onsen. That is about 90 mins away by bus from memory. It is really worth checking out, it is like nothing else I've seen (or smelled, the sulphur is very strong)

Those are just suggestions, if it is hard to squeeze in there is always next time, we are up to trip number 14 or so and we have barely been north of Tokyo lol. Our favorite places (not that you asked) are Takayama, Nara, Kyoto, while Kyoto is a concrete-y city once you get to the outskirts it is foresty and really pretty.
by Lazy Pious (guest) rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/30 18:41
While in Tokyo I imagine youfll be visiting the more popular districts like Shibuya, Shinjuku, Shinagawa, and the other places along the Yamanote Line. But if you like walking, and want to see a more different part of Tokyo, I would recommend the area around Minami Senju station. This is an area which most Japanese would never recommend to tourists due to its history.

Right across from Minami Senju Station is a small graveyard with a large stone statue which looks like a Buddha. This was the site of one of Tokyofs most notorious execution grounds, Kozukappara. Standing in front of the old stone statue with the train tracks on either side, you would never imagine the days when the statue was surrounded by empty fields, and that as many as 200,000 people were executed on that spot. The street which runs in front of the cemetery and temple is called gKotsu-dorih or gbone street.h Those executed at Kozukappara were not buried very deeply, so their bones were (are) always found in the area.

About 20 minutes walk from Minami Senju station, heading toward Minowa Station is the old Yoshiwara district (now called Senzoku). This was the so-called gpleasure quartersh for old Tokyo, home to the prostitution district, and, oddly, the source of much of the culture in the old days. Music, art, poetry and the like originated in the Yoshiwara, it has a sordid history, largely tragic, but an important part of Tokyo culture. The few city blocks which the Yoshiwara district covers are the same as when it was built in the 17th century, when it was a walled enclosure surrounded by rice paddies. Today it is indistinguishable from the rest of the city, except that it is still the center of Tokyofs prostitution district (which is obvious enough if you walk through it).

Heading from the Yoshiwara, you can find your way to Asakusa, and the Sensoji Temple, which is probably the biggest tourist attraction in Tokyo. Coming by way of the Yoshiwara toward the Sumida River, youfll pass through what used to be called the Sanya district, and what was the location of one of Tokyofs old geta murah (outcast village). These are places which Tokyo has been slowly trying to erase from its social memory, but the historical origins of these areas are easy to spot if you know the signs.

Asakusa is normally one of the most crowded places in Japan, it draws local and international tourists as well as pilgrims. Itfs largely a tourist trap selling Chinese-made Japanese souvenirs, and souvenir foods unique to the area, like senbei crackers. Still, it is an interesting place to see, and a great place to take photos.

Not far from Asakusa is Bakurocho, and Kodenmacho. Bakurocho is now Tokyofs garment district, formerly it was the location of the cityfs horse market. Kodenmacho used to be the location of Tokyofs most notorious prison, many of the condemned were shipped off to Kozukappara. This area is between Akihabara and Nihonbashi.

Another great place is Tsukishima (Moon Island), which is 10 minute bus ride from Tokyo station. Tsukishima still has some of the old scenery and neighborhoods which bring back the culture of old Tokyo. Be sure to stop at one of the numerous Monja shops, Ataru is the best one I have tried so far. Be warned that many of these places donft have non-smoking seats.

If you like musical instruments or books, or sporting goods (the yen is weak now, so good deals to be found), check out Ochanomizu and Jimbocho, these are walking distance from Akihabara. Anime and idol fans still crowd Akiba, you can have a meal in a maid cafe, and check out some of the interesting shops and stores.

Central Tokyo has Ginza and Nihonbashi, I prefer the latter to the former, though Ginza is easy on the eyes. If you visit Tokyo Station (more than likely), on the B1 level there is a Dean and Deluca store which sells a pork tenderloin sandwich, I canft recommend it highly enough.

If you take the train out to Harajuku Station, you can wander around Omotesando and Harajuku, take a stroll through Yoyogi Park, and walk to Shibuya.

There are literally too many things to see and do, Ifve been here 15 years and still havenft seen it all.



by Roppongi Crossing rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/30 20:10
I've only been to Kurama-dera, but the hike from Kurama-dera to Kifune Shrine seems to be good.
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3933.html
In Kyoto, I think Ohara is also a good place to take a walk because of the rural scenery.
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3932.html
In Nara, I also like the route from Gansen-in to Joruri-ji that appears in this article.
https://www.japan-guide.com/community/chashitsu/report-1830
As for the buildings, I also like Hasedera and Murouji.
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4186.html
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4187.html
It might be good here too.
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4189.html
It's not a very famous tourist spot, but Mt Oyama might be good near my house. (published in the Michelin Guide)
Perhaps at that time of year there would be no snow.
Previously, when I climbed in early March, there was still snow, so it was a little dangerous.
https://isehara-kanko.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/nature-and-view.p...
It's not a hike, it's a light climb, so you'll need sneakers or trekking shoes.
It takes about an hour and a half to two hours to reach the summit. When I climbed in early March, the toilet at the summit was not open.
It is also recommended to go down Onna-zaka Slope from Afuri Shrine Station towards Oyama Temple.
https://isehara-kanko.com/en-top/en-guide-map/
This day-trip hot spring is recommended near Mt Oyama.
https://www.jinya-inn.com/databox/data.php/1day_plan_en/code
There is also Tanzawa, but I think it will be difficult if you are not used to climbing.
by haro1210 rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/31 02:53
Hi!

Perhaps it's because I spent close to a decade living someplace quite rural, but I think there is nothing wrong with seeing more city and less nature. I also find that unless you are traveling very light (which also means harder to purchase souvenirs and needing to find laundry days, I personally don't like any of the many Japanese washers and dryers I've used. The dryers are very poor and while hang drying is very popular in Japan, it doesn't always work well as a tourist in a hotel room and depending on the weather doesn't work well for anyone!) Every time you move to places you need to deal with luggage. I love Takkyubin, or however you want to transliterate it, it's a great bargain for what it is, but it does add up if you keep needing to use it and just checking in and out with even small bags can be a pain. Our next trip I am trying to limit the single nights we spend places.

If you want to do a stop off between Tokyo and Kanazawa you could consider Yamanouchi: https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6025.html

There is a Midori luggage office near the walkthrough to the Metropolitan Hotel in Nagano Station and if you arrive before 11:30 they have same day luggage service to most ryokan. Yudanaka onsen/Shibu onsen/Kanabayashi onsen will all feel quite rural and if you want to see snow, Shiga Kogen will likely still have it as the ski season goes to April or May! I think Yudanaka and possibly Shibu onsen have some budgetary ryokan experiences, but they do book up so you would need to book sooner rather than later. I want to say I saw places for around $120 a night. I don't remember what was included. We paid quite a bit more to stay at Senjukaku.

I was actually looking into spending a night in Karuizawa for New Years because it had a lot of openings, but most places seemed to be a pain to reach from the station without a taxi and few places were running a shuttle service.

You are also likely to hit sakura season and will definitely be hitting momo and ume, if flower viewing is an interest of yours. you should be able to hit the tail end of ume festival in Kairakuen in Mito. I highly recommend it and you can easily get there from Tokyo via public transit. If you have any sort of JR Pass, it's about 1 hour away. Late March is also a vacation time for the Japanese. I've been to Hakone quite a number of times, but it was the most crowded and hardest to book an accommodation for when I went in late March, so if you decide to go to Hakone look into booking somewhere now!

I've not been to Takayama in late March, just late February (and Summer) but anywhere that has roads or activities closed for Winter in the area can get snow and if you're not comfortable driving in snow just be aware of that. Unless you are comfortable driving in snow and on mountain roads, you might be better off just taking a bus to places like Shin-Hokata or Hirayu if those are the sort of things you planned to do near Takayama.

I agree that Hikone is a great place to visit.

I like Tanabe, if you don't want to go all the way back to Osaka post the Kumano Kudo, you can stay in Wakayama which has direct limo buses or you can take the train to KIX.

good luck!
by rkold rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/10/31 03:40
That looks like a nice trip and you have already had some really good replies. When in Himeji I wouldnt miss the garden Kokoen next to the castle. It's modern but lovely. Hire bicycles are available at the station.
My only real worry is that you only have one full day in Hiroshima. You run the risk of having bad weather on that day and it taking the edge off things. I would try to somehow allow one more day there to allow for that. Also check the tide times for Ikutsushima (Miyajima). The first time I went the tide was out which wasnt what I wanted. I went back before I left town when the tide was in.
I also really like Hikone & hope to return soon. I really particularly liked Ryutanji and the castle museum.
by Stan Norrell rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/11/21 13:58
Hey Lotte,

If you can't add many of suggestions to your trip in the beginning portion, and are still staying in Tokyo for that big chunk at the beginning, you could try some of the day hikes on the outskirts of Tokyo to get your hike/nature fix (whilst still being based in the city).

I really enjoyed walking around Mt Mitake it was a great day out in the mountains.

Something to consider at least, as you mentioned budget!

by umjammerleilani rate this post as useful

Re: First timers - 3 week itinerary March/April 2022/11/27 17:56
Thanks all for the really great replies! Will be booking our tickets today - very excited!
by Lotte (guest) rate this post as useful

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