Ifm sorry that Lazy Pious has had such a bad experience with crowds in Kyoto, but I have to beg to differ. I was there recently during foliage season, which normally is a busy time (this year was an off year for koyo, which no doubt reduced the number of visitors somewhat, but foreigners will still come then because they have already made reservations). I went to Fushimi Inari Jinja and Arashiyama, and also to Kurama and Pontocho, and was able to get seats on trains to all places. I did use one cab (from JR Saga Arashiyama station to Otagi Nenbutsuji and then I walked back). None of the places I visited, including five temples and two shrines, were really crowded (except Fushimi Inari, at the bottom part, which was somewhat crowded but not a zoo; Jojakoji in Arashiyama was slightly crowded but not terribly so, and the other three wonderful temples I went to in Arashiyama were practically deserted). The historic preservation street in Arashiyama was also pretty much devoid of people, and the gotherh bamboo forest (at Adashino Nenbutsuji) had two other visitors, part of the time I was there. Restaurants were a mixed bag, but my group simply avoided ones that had a wait, and we had some wonderful meals. We did get some JR train tickets in Kyoto Station, but we used a ticket machine and there was not a very long wait (under 10 minutes).
The places I named above are all popular (Kurama a little less so, but a great place for a hike), but I was showing a first-timer around and wanted her to see some famous sites. I did not even consider going to Kiyomizudera (in my opinion it has lost its value as a sightseeing spot, let alone a religious site, because of overcrowding) or Kinkakuji (no fun getting there, and not worth the crowds, in my personal opinion). And I never take buses in central Kyoto anymore. Subway and trains are my main way to get around, and occasionally I take a cab from a station to a sightseeing venue. I avoid staffed JR ticketing offices whenever possible, and at Kyoto Station I go early in the day or else gshop aroundh (there are at least four staffed offices you can go to there).
So anyway, I would not cut my time in Kyoto short, but I do recommend not going on a weekend, and waiting until after Golden Week. Other tips are to go to the famous places as early as you can, and for restaurants dine early for dinner, and early or late for lunch. And donft take any buses that go to tourist magnet sites. Just donftc
Another suggestion is to visit the Kansai Tourist Information Center on the third floor of the Kyoto Tower building (not the one in Kyoto Station). This is the best TIC I have been to in Japan. The wait times there, if any, are usually short, and they have English-proficient staff who can give you personalized suggestions for places to visit and how to get to them. They also sell a number of transit passes there. (I sometimes get a Keihan pass, which is very good value if you plan a dayfs itinerary around it. I also sometimes get subway day passes, but those are easy to get at any subway station.)
If you want to go to Kyoto at a busy time and go to the gmust-seeh places any time after midmorning, then you will find the crowds that many people are complaining about. But if you play your cards right, you can still experience the essence of Kyoto, without the notorious crowds.
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