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This gtrip reporth is being posted as a contribution to japanguide forum, in thanks to Ujifs invaluable and insightful help to everyone.
We are back from a northern Tohoku visit. I will leave out the heavily traveled areas we visited, and highlight the lesser traveled sites.
Different sites/articles comment on Gembikei and Geibikei gorges. The authors state that if time was limited to visit Geibikei. I have to disagree. Geibikei is the gorge with the boat ride. Ifm not sure if it was due to the season, early June, but the boat ride did not travel the distance shown in the brochure. We traveled partway down the gorge, and although scenic, in my opinion, nothing special. Gembikei on the other hand, was spectacular. A bridge crosses the narrow gorge and you have views of a very narrow tree lined gorge, with rushing water. Also fun, is the purchase of gflying dangoh. For a mere Y400, you hit a mallet on a wooden board, place your money in a basket, and wait for the man on the other side of the gorge to send your gdangoh. The flavored mochi, and cups of tea via the wire line flying toward us was a highlight for my 13 year old son. In addition, the man graciously gave us extra mochi, with a handwritten note stating that it was a gift for us, and welcome. We returned and gave him a small candy token. He generously sent us a big bag of chocolate candy!
We rented a car in Hiraizumi, cost Y2500 for 3 hours, including gas. The drive between Gembikei and Takkoku no Iwaya was gorgeous. The road goes through beautiful countryside, and we saw farmers tending their rice crops. A roadside cemetery also added to the ambiance. Truthfully, we enjoyed Gembikei and the drive so much that we missed Chusonji. A good reason to return.
The train ride from Hanamaki to Kamaishi to Miyako was wonderful. The route takes you past hundreds of rice fields, small mountain communities, and mountain passes. The tracks pass many rivers and travel through beautiful lush green forests. The three hour ride passed very quickly with such beautiful sights to take in.
During my extensive research I found little information on Miyako. We enjoyed our visit there. We visited a small seafood market, and dined at a Y105 kaiten sushi that was extremely fresh and delicious. The local tourist info center was very helpful. We arrived at Jodogahama beach about 5:00 PM and had it to ourselves. Although it was a gloomy and foggy day, it added to the overall atmosphere. The jutting rocks and rolling fog was stunning.
The route from Miyako to Morioka was equally scenic. The train goes through the mountains and forests, and passes small communities.
I realize Kakunodate is a major tourist stop. It deserves its reputation. It really is a beautiful strolling area and the pictures donft do it justice.
Tsurunoya in Nyuto Onsen was a dream, exactly like the photo on japanguide.com. We knew we were heading somewhere special as the bus ride took 45 minutes to a bus stop, and we traveled another 20 minutes by shuttle. We drove higher and further into the verdant green mountains. We were fortunate to have a room with a irori pit. Our dinner consisted of fresh fish on skewers cooked over coals in our room. At dusk, I stepped outside and felt like I traveled back in time. We made friends with a group of young men from Sendai. They helped us with a bit of translation, and the next day they gave us a bottle of sake! Sitting in the outdoor onsen, viewing the green forests and traditional buildings was a highlight for us.
Yonezawa in itself is nothing special. But, we visited the nearby town of Takahata and rented bikes. We rode on the designated bike path through the town and farmland. The first third of the bike path is tree-lined and vine-covered. We passed rice fields and local neighborhoods. The next third takes you through the business section of town, and past a small park. There is also a small temple complex. We asked a man for help. He insisted on giving us a map, and walked across the road to assist us. This type of help is not unusual in Japan. We have had this type ofgracious and generous assistance in each of our five trips to Japan. The final third section of the path was visually spectacular. After you crest a hill, you are rewarded with a view of a valley filled with rice fields and surrounded by green hillside.
Thanks Uji, for all your help.
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