I am a large woman, and have lived in Japan happily for years. I have put on weight as I've got older - and I certainly have different genes from most Japanese people - but even when I first came to Japan, I was curvier than the average Japanese woman. Practically speaking, I think one has to accept from the beginning that it will always be hard for anyone not very slender indeed to buy clothes here. I have favourite US catalogs and I buy everyday clothes from them, and dressier things on trips abroad. I find controlling weight here about as difficult as anywhere; although classic Japanese food is delicious, healthy and served in beautifully small portions, you don't always get to eat a perfect meal in the context of a busy day. At the same time, I am sure that I would weigh more now if I lived in my home country, were constantly confronted by larger, richer portions, and owned a car. Here I walk 15 mins to the station so that's half an hour's exercise even not counting the day's work, errands, etc. All that being said, the point is that some of us are just larger than most of the Japanese people around us, and sometimes they do have trouble figuring out why. They know that they lose weight easily - incredibly easily - if they just cut back a little, wonder why we don't do the same, and conclude that we must just like to be bigger. Even taking account of occasional exceptions - unsophisticated strangers, an intrusive friend, and people like doctors and exercise-class teachers who think it's their job to point out what you already know (and always depending where you are and who you're with - for example, as in any country, in a bar with people who have lost a few inhibitions you'll get a different impression) the general level of public and private politeness here is high. I think one thing to remember is that Japanese people in general do value neatness in personal appearance, and dignity in behaviour, and are turned off by sloppiness, messiness, and loudness. But as long as you dress with care, and mind your manners in public (taking your cue from how adult Japanese people act, which if you stay here long enough, gets to seem natural), you are very unlikely to encounter rudeness, whatever you look like. Mostly what other posters have registered as "disgust" in shop assistants is probably more like panic: will I have to speak English to explain we don't have her size? - how do I say that? You can make it easier for them by just being polite. Stares in public? - well, you are different, in any number of ways, some more admired than you may realize, some not - but again, if you're feeling sensitive and culture-shocked, you can definitely misinterpret expressions. However, I do not recommend talking about being fat - to anyone. That just gives people the idea that you really enjoy talking about it, and does open the way for questions you might not appreciate. Be yourself, look good and be seen to care about your appearance, stay cool, and you will be fine.
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