Osaka to Beppu: Luxury Ferry to a Land of Steam
The smoke rising from the hot springs of Beppu is an iconic Japanese scene, but despite its fame, can be a little difficult to get to. If you try getting there by bus or shinkansen, you're either giving up half of your day to the rail, or getting a terrible night's sleep on the road. So today I'll share with you an interesting third option: a luxury ferry.
The Sunflower goes between Osaka and Beppu, so is a great alternative side trip, and acts not only as transport to the city, but also as a comfortable hotel. You can board in the evening with your car, or on foot, and have various rooms to choose from. When you wake up in the morning, you're already in the land of hot springs, ready to explore its natural sights and baths.
Day One: Onboard the Sunflower
The Sunflower is relatively easy to access from central Osaka, and takes around 30 minutes to reach from Umeda Station by train. You can board the ferry from an hour before departure, so you have some time to check in to your room onboard.
Stepping onto the Sunflower, you'll immediately forget that you're on a boat, as everything is more like a hotel, complete with a grand staircase and elegant decor. It's not until you look out the window or go out on deck that you remember - this hotel is out at sea.
On the entrance floor and up the beautiful steps is a variety of different rooms, from simple cabin beds to luxurious suites, and even some rooms to bring your pet with you. The top floor houses the suites, which are complete with their own shower room and toilet, a TV, a private balcony and a free welcome drink of wine and orange juice.
Before and during departure, there is some time to get settled in and treat yourself to the dinner buffet. Depending on the day, the food can be a varied array of Japanese and international cuisine, featuring rice and noodle dishes, sashimi, and a luscious chocolate fountain. Grab a soft drink from the drinks bar or order an alcoholic beverage for an extra fee, and take up your seat with a view of the sun setting over the docks.
When departure is announced with a gong in the atrium, you're off! The Sunflower pulls away from the port and makes its gentle advance to the steamy land of Beppu.
About an hour after departure, there will be an announcement directing your attention to the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, the second-longest suspension bridge in the world. As the ferry passes under it, this is a great time to make use of your balcony if you have one, or to head to one of the outer decks that flank three sides of the boat to get a good view. The wind can be a little intense out on the deck, so be careful, but it certainly makes that moment extra memorable!
Once you're ready to start winding down, you can spend some time in the shared baths, or - if you're staying on the suite floor - the top floor lounge, where you can help yourself to free ice cream and coffee.
The baths are separated into men's and women's on either side of the ferry, and are a nice way to relax and get a taste of Japanese bath culture before you arrive in a city famous for exactly that.
Day Two: Beppu
Mornings start early on the Sunflower, as arrival is usually at 6:55am from Sunday to Thursday, and 7:55am on Friday and Saturday, and the breakfast buffet closes 10 minutes before arrival.
As the ferry comes into the port, you'll be able to see the iconic tendrils of steam rising from Beppu town as they are emitted from the hot springs. The stunning sight can be seen from decks and rooms on the starboard side of the ship, which is the same side as the men's baths.
At Beppu Port, you are then free to explore the city! Two interesting areas for sightseeing are the area around Beppu Station, and the area around Kannawa district.
If you're feeling like a relaxing morning of baths and cafes, the Beppu Station area is a good choice. There you'll find all sorts of early opening onsen baths, cafes, and a park for a relaxing walk.
One of the most notable hot spring baths in the area is Takegawara Onsen. This historic bathhouse was originally built in 1879, and gets its name from its former bamboo thatched roof. There are both hot spring and sand baths to experience in this traditional setting, and it opens from 6:30am, making it a good starting point for some onsen hopping.
Nearby, most of the cafes start opening from around 10am or so, but there are a select few that open earlier, like Cocolate Cafe, which opens at 8am on weekdays. On the west side of the station, there is also Beppu Park, which is open 24 hours and has seasonal flowers to marvel at as you go on a peaceful morning stroll.
Otherwise, if you want to see live hot springs in action, you can head out towards Kannawa, famous for the so-called Hells of Beppu.
The Hells of Beppu are seven different hot springs made for viewing rather than bathing, varying from strange bubbling mud pools to beautiful blue waters. Most of them are located next to each other in the Kannawa district, but two are in the neighboring Noda district. They each have their own characteristics, and make for a memorable sightseeing spot, especially if you are able to do the round of all seven.
In the area, there are also plenty of hot spring baths you can enter, like Hyotan Onsen, and even a number of accommodations with their own baths, too. While you're there, this is a great opportunity to try the unique cuisine of Jigokumushikobo Kannawa, where they use the natural steam of the hot springs to cook up local dishes!
Whether you stay a while or just visit for the day, the Sunflower will also be waiting for you to head back to Osaka. Otherwise, you're free to carry on your exploration of southern Japan.
Access and Ferry Boarding Information
From Umeda Station, take the Midosuji Line to Hommachi Station, followed by the Chuo Line to Cosmosquare Station, and finally the New Tram line to Trade Center Mae Station, from which it is a two-minute walk (total journey around 30 minutes).
If you plan to visit the Osaka World Expo 2025, the ferry terminal is easy to reach from Yumeshima Station which is the closest station to the Expo site. Take the Chuo Line to Cosmosquare Station and walk 15 minutes, or change to the New Tram line to Trade Center Mae Station, from which it is a two-minute walk.
The Sunflower ferry leaves in the evening and arrives in the morning from both Osaka and Beppu. Depending on the day, it leaves at 19:05 or 20:05 from Osaka, and 18:45 or 19:20 from Beppu, and the full timetable can be seen on the official website.
Beppu Access and Further Travel
Once you arrive in Beppu, there are buses from the Sunflower Terminal bus stop that can take you to Beppu Station, such as bus numbers 16, 16a, and 20. The bus departure times line up with the ferry arrival times, with four departures from 7am and 9am on weekdays, and seven on weekends.
If you want to explore more of the Kyushu region, the Sonic Limited Express train goes from Beppu Station to Hakata Station in just over two hours, allowing you to visit Fukuoka and its neighboring prefectures easily.