Exploring Japan’s Ancient Capitals
You may have heard that Kyoto was once the capital of Japan before Tokyo. But before even Kyoto held that title, Japan's ancient capitals were stationed just a little further south, changing almost as frequently as the emperors themselves.
In this two-day trip, I visited the regions of Asuka and Nara, which were instrumental in forming the beginnings of a centralized government over 1,000 years ago.
These days, Nara is a built-up city with shops and cafes, and the famous deer park, but by getting to know some of its historical roots, you can add some of these spots to your Nara itinerary, or follow it yourself for a deeper cultural experience.
Day 1: Asuka
There are two main ways to get to the ancient capital of Asuka, and that is from Kyoto or Osaka. Wanting to go the scenic route, I opted to get the special Blue Symphony sightseeing train from Osaka. The train departs from Osaka just twice a day, in the morning and afternoon, but I highly recommend it if you can.
Despite being quite affordable, the train experience is completely different to regular local trains, with plush seats finished with bamboo armrests, huge windows to watch the countryside pass by, and even a lounge car with food and drinks. Their food uses seasonal ingredients and is prepared by local chefs and patissiers, and I treated myself to their seasonal cake, which was an almond mousse with raspberries and a biscuit base.
When I said goodbye to the Blue Symphony at Asuka Station, I rented a bike and headed straight to the Ishibutai Tumulus. This tomb is believed to belong to Soga no Umako, a key figure in the introduction of Buddhism to Japan, and thus, to politics and the structure of the government.
While there are many tombs around Japan, called kofun, this is a rare example of a bare stone tomb, without its original earth covering. Kofun were usually reserved for very important people, mainly emperors themselves, so it is clear just how high Umako's status truly was.
The reason we know anything at all about Soga no Umako is because of the Nihon Shoki, Japan's second-oldest historical records that go back to the 7th century, when Umako was around.
At the time, Shinto was the main religion, and there wasn't much competition. So, one of the most controversial things Umako did was to introduce Buddhism to Japan, which brings us nicely to Asukadera Temple.
Asukadera was Japan's first ever Buddhist temple and contained the country's first Buddhist statue, ordered for construction by Soga no Umako in the year 596. While the statue itself has been touched up and renovated over the centuries, it is believed to still be standing in its original spot, with its original characteristics, such as its slightly narrow face.
Umako was given imperial permission to practice Buddhism among his Soga clan as a trial period. But even that contained introduction of a new religion was enough for their conservative rival clan to find blame for sickness that was crossing the land. The conflict turned into outright war. Soga no Umako, on the side of the imperial family, emerged victorious, spreading Buddhism throughout the country with his niece as empress.
These Buddhist ideals originally came from China, but it wasn't just ideology that made its way over. Over the years, more culture, academic thought, and technology spread to Japan too.
Several emperors after Soga no Umako's time, the decision was made to create a palace and capital city based on a Chinese model, with a rectangular street system and city walls. The palace was called Fujiwara Palace, and the area only remained the capital for 16 years, before Empress Genmei enacted a relocation of the capital to present-day Nara.
These days, the site of the former palace is merely a serene plot of grassy land, surrounded by rice paddies and quaint homes, a nice spot for a last rest on a day of cycling.
Finishing up my cycle, I followed in Empress Genmei's footsteps, albeit on a more modern route, by returning my bike at Kashiharaiingu-mae Station and taking the Kintetsu Line up north to Kintetsu-Nara Station.
Taking the empress's lead, that night I treated myself to a luxurious stay at Tsukihitei Hotel, hidden in the calm of the woodland right beside the Kasugayama Primeval Forest, which has been protected from logging and hunting since shortly after Empress Genmei's reign in the 7th century.
Arriving at the quiet entrance, I was transported back to a time without high-rise buildings, surrounded by rustling leaves and birds chirping in the distance. Dinner was brought to me in several courses, all featuring local, seasonal ingredients. My favourite was the seafood course, complete with spiny lobster, prawn, seabream and other delightful seafood and vegetables all plated beautifully.
Back in the room, I couldn't help but feel that even Empress Genmei might not have had it this good, as I sipped on sake from my all-inclusive mini fridge, soaked my tired muscles in my prepared private bath, and sunk into my comfy bed for the night.
Day 2: Nara
I woke up to the sunlight dissolving through the sliding doors onto the tatami, and had yet another luxurious traditional meal before heading out for the day.
Wanting to make the most of this beautiful nature, I started by heading up Mount Wakakusayama, to get a view of the city below and one of my destinations for the day: Heijo Palace.
Of course I stopped to feed the deer on my way back down, before heading to Salon Naramachi for an elegant spot of tea before my trip to the palace.
Among the beautiful old merchant buildings, at Salon Naramachi you are first met with a serene shop full of fabrics and ceramics. A raised tatami area hiding in the back opens up onto a spacious cafe, complete with Japanese gardens and elegant deer motifs.
I sat in a corner with a lovely view of the garden, and ordered a matcha tea with a seasonal traditional sweet, called wagashi. The matcha was "jitate" meaning "self-whisk", so I received a demonstration from the staff before whisking and enjoying my bubbly matcha.
But while tea does indeed have a long history in Japan, it's unlikely that our Day 2 protagonist, Empress Genmei, would have been leisurely sipping on tea the way I was doing. It was just around her time during the 7th century that tea was introduced to Japan at all, and it was originally mainly used for medicinal and religious purposes. Nevertheless, I wanted to visit the place and share it with you if you fancy a more modern moment of tea and tranquility.
My last spot of the trip was a good one - Heijo Palace. This is where Empress Genmei moved the capital to, based on a Chinese model with rectangular streets and city walls. This Chinese influence also brought with it the creation of the Ritsuryo System, which was the beginnings of Japan's centralized government. It was also made with the goal of being Japan's first permanent capital, rather than the previous capitals that moved with each emperor.
By the entrance to Heijo Palace, there's a full-scale replica of the mission ship to China, called the Kentoshi Ship, which would have been responsible for much of these cross-cultural exchanges. All of the structures, including the ship, are reconstructed replicas built in recent decades, as it wasn't until recently its significance was discovered through archeological research on the rural area after the war.
Not far from the ship is Suzaku Gate, the entrance to the palace with a wide street leading towards it and the palace itself through what was once the city center. This is where goods would be hauled back and forth, when there weren't dances and lively events being held!
I crossed the wide path, taking in the summer air as I imagined the lively atmosphere that once was, and made my way to the East Palace Garden.
The garden is the only place on the entire grounds where you can see an original artefact in what is thought to be its original placement. These may just look like ordinary ornamental rocks, but they have over 1,000 years of history behind them!
Of the palace grounds, the garden was my favourite spot. On my visit, no-one else was there, and it was a calm place with only the faint sound of running water and birds chirping all around. This was once a site for banquets and ceremonies, and played a role similar to that of a modern day State Guest House. I'm sure any guests would have loved waking up to this tranquil scene.
My last stop was the Former Audience Hall - the stage for major events like New Year celebrations and imperial announcements. It was here that Empress Genmei likely passed the throne to her daughter, Empress Gensho, in the year 715. The stately hall is open to the public (closed on Mondays) to see historic exhibits and a recreation of the imperial throne.
My journey ended with the end of Empress Genmei's reign, and I made my way back to Kyoto with a head full of new knowledge of the ancient capitals.
Links and Information
Heijo Palace Site Museum
Hours: 9am to 4:30pm (last entry 4pm)
Price: Free
Closed: Mondays (or the following weekday if Monday is a national holiday), New Year's holidays
Access: 10-minute walk from Kintetsu Yamato-Saidaiji Station
More Information: Official website
Useful Links
- Blue Symphony: Official website of the sightseeing train
- Tsukihitei: Official website of the luxury accommodation