Designs on Tennozu Isle

Street art on a wall

With fall fast on the heels of summer, the temperatures are starting to cool down and the country gearing up for the autumn color season. Having at least another month before the colors make their way down towards the city, I spent a warm day in Tennozu Isle gallery and cafe hopping. One of the best things about Tennozu is its size and proximity to the city. The entire island is small and highly walkable, and good as a relaxing day trip or a half day out. Tennozu Isle is also a stop on the Tokyo Monorail which provides direct access to Haneda Airport, as well as the Rinkai Line which goes to Odaiba, or a 15 minute walk from Shinagawa Station.

Cyclist riding past a mural by POW! WOW!
Looking across at Tennozu Isle
Large objet d'art can be found in and around the island
Massive sumo mural by POW! WOW!

Tennozu Isle was originally a fort to protect Shinagawa from potential attacks from the sea but eventually became a distribution district with many warehouses. Today, the area still contains many warehouses and still remains as a distribution center. It not commerically developed like many of the areas just across the waters, and there are no large department stores nor major clothing chain shops here. Just a quiet hip-ness mixed with an industrial feel to the area. The small island is also family friendly with two parks and playgrounds at the southern end and large boardwalks with ramp access.

Freshly baked bread with free flow coffee at breadworks to start the day
Terra Cafe Bar is also open for breakfast
Their main business is instant food, good in emergencies, long hiking trips or if you're plain lazy
Diners can also heat up frozen food sold at Terra Cafe to eat in
Retiree baseball in session
These guys told me they play twice a week, four hours each time and their average age is about 74
If you smell something sweet in the air in the autumn, it's probably from this kinmokusei plant
Boardwalks for life

Art plays a large part on the island, and that was what I set out to see. Instead of visiting shrines and temples and going the traditional route, I jumped straight into modern world and spent a day visiting all things art, design and architecture.

Painted sluice gates
Murals everywhere

Many of the main attractions (cafes and galleries) are found along and around Bond Street, whose name was derived from the street's history as a maritime customs area where bond had to be paid for goods brought in. Street art by international renowned group POW! WOW! can be seen on Bond Street. There are also a number of cafes, including a couple that open early enough for breakfast (breakfast places that are not chain restaurants can be a little hard to find)! There are also large objets d'art littered around the island which visitors can incorporate into their art walk of the island.

One of the few (if not the only) lifestyle shop on the island
Home goods on the first floor, furniture on the second
Soholm, the restaurant attached to Slow Home
My cremet d'anjou for tea
Come during lunch or dinner to try their main menu which includes game meat and caviar
Beautiful chiboust from Lilycakes

Archi Depot is an architectural model museum which opened in June 2016 across the road from Bond Street. The relatively small museum showcases original scale models of completed buildings and competition works by many well known architects and firms. These mock-ups show the architect's thought process and illustrates what the design aims to encapsulate. Descriptions are in both English and Japanese, and further information of the architects can be found on QR codes.

I had a great time scrutinizing the tiny models and learned more about contemporary Japanese architecture and their architects. It was also amazing to see the effort that went into making these detailed mock-ups just so that the viewer can have a better understanding and insight of the architect's concept.

Row upon rows of architectural models
If you think this looks familiar, then you've probably seen the Asakusa Tourist Center
The Starbucks coffee shop in Dazaifu, Fukuoka
The 1998 Nagano Winter Olympic Venue, the M-wave

Pigment, a shop-museum-atelier devoted to all things color and art tools can be found on the street next to Archi Depot. The shop is designed by famed architect, Kuma Kengo, and has a wavy bamboo design starting from the exterior which continues inside. I very much enjoyed looking at all the colors of the rainbow and more that filled an entire wall from floor to ceiling. The pigment powders are sold by weight (minimum of 15 grams) and mixed in your binder of choice at home. Supplies like brushes, inkstones and canvases can also be purchased here, and visitors can also attend workshops (reservations required). Expert staff are also on hand to answer any queries or in my case, answer my beginner questions on pigments.

Entrance to Pigment
Which blends into the interior of the shop
Can you paint with all the colors of the wind
Gold leaf sold here too

One of the newly opened art galleries is the Terrada Art Complex which opened in early September 2016. It is technically not on Tennozu Isle, but just across the bridge from the island. As the name suggests, it is yet another art project started by the Terrada storage company. The art complex is located on the third floor of one of their active warehouses, and getting to the right location felt like a little adventure. I was a little hesistant entering the warehouse while everyone else was moving goods, but soon realised that the staff there were used to clueless visitors. Entry to the gallery is via the huge warehouse elevators, and there are instructions in English and Japanese on how to operate them.

Once on the third floor, you're transported into gallery space where white walls and quiet space rule. There are five small galleries in the space with each hosting different temporary exhibitions which were all free to enter. Definitely an interesting place to check out some lesser known artists if you're in the area.

Tokyo Art Complex, warehouse elevator on the right
This was made with string and how it remained soft yet sturdy remains a mystery to me
The Urano Gallery
Really enjoyed the exhibition here
Welcome to the awesome mansion where music plays itself

After a day of walking around and seeing lots of good design and art, there was no better way to close the day with dinner at the local restaurant and brewery T.Y. Harbor along the waterway.

The bar and the brewery behind
Don't let these empty tables deceive you. You pretty much need a reservation to dine here most nights
Just me and my beer
The Chotto Zeitaku Japan series by is a continuing project to seek out places that allow us to enjoy the better things in life. Not exactly a sightseeing guide, but one that transports the visitor into a different space to relax and get away from it all.