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November 4, 2014 - Arashiyama and nearby sights

We caught the local train to Saga Arashiyama by the river Hozu, just after it emerges from the Hozu gorge. Our first visit was to the Hogon-in temple, a sub temple of Tenryu-ji. Hogon-in has a pleasant stroll garden with many grumpy looking statues of monks by the entrance (clearly having had the same difficulty of finding the entrance as we did!). The main garden is known as the Garden of the Lions Roar, taken from the teachings of Buddha ? hearing the bird song and wind blowing it is possible to experience the truth of life and the true path and as a result, the healing of the heart. The garden contains the huge lion stone (some 20 tons of it).

From there we entered the main temple of Tenryu-ji, the temple of heaven and an important temple of the Rinzai sect. The main garden is that of Sogenchi and one of the oldest in Japan. It depicts a copy of a silk screen painting within the landscape cleverly incorporating the Ogura hills as part of the garden view. It includes a large pond with islands and a windswept pine tree together with a dry waterfall giving the impression of water dashing down the hill behind. The path takes you around the pond and various routes on the hillside to emerge at the north exit and proceeded through the bamboo forest.

Turning left we proceeded through the bamboo forest to the hillside garden of Okochi-sanso, the home of the silent movie actor Okochi Denjiro. After taking refreshments of green tea and sweet we travelled the winding paths up the hillside to the upper tea house and then beyond to the top of the ridge with it's magnificent views of the the Hozu gorge and in the other direction towards the city with the hills behind.

We travelled further up the path at the foothills of the Ogura mountains to visit Nison-in, known for it's grand entranceway lined with colourful maples and Danrin-ji an old nunnery now a museum.

After a short stay we returned to the town and crossed the Togetsukyo bridge to the other station and after lunching by the river took the train to Matsuo and visited the Matsuo Taisha (Matsunoo) shrine with its' massive torii entrance gate, racks of sake barrels and temples. The rice gods were important and many shrines are dedicated to them. There are three modern gardens built by Shigemori Mirei representing a wild mountain top where the gods ascend to earth, a Heian period stream garden with rocks and azaleas and a Kamakura period paradise garden with pond and islands with a fountain of eternal youth - clearly we are in cloud cuckoo land!

We strolled along the back streets to Saiho-ji (the moss) temple of the Zen sect, firstly attending prayers and copying a sutra before being allowed to stroll around this most serene and yin of gardens. The temple boasts of over 100 different types of moss and has ponds, tea houses and a turtle rock arrangement all set under large tree canopy providing dappled light playing on the moss.

We continued along the back streets to a small temple known as the poor man's moss temple of Jizo-in. A quiet, pleasant temple with few visitors, known for its' bamboos and hence also known as the bamboo temple.

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List of Posts:
2017/07/25 - Japan's tectonic landscape reflected in the gardens
2017/07/15 - Flora of Japan
2016/04/27 - Time in Asakusa
2016/04/25 - Kakunodate
2016/04/23 - A Thousand Cranes
2016/04/22 - Castle in the Clouds
2016/04/21 - The beauty of Koraku-en
2016/04/20 - Far from the Madding Kyoto Crowds - Part 1
2016/04/20 - Far from the Madding Kyoto Crowds - Part 2
2016/04/18 - A Day in the Mountains
2016/04/17 - Delights of Hikone
2016/04/16 - Nara Revisited
2015/01/03 - Kamakura temples and gardens
2015/01/01 - Takayama Temple Trail
2014/12/29 - Kurama - Kibune hiking trail
2014/11/10 - A visit to Himeji
2014/11/05 - Shigemori Mirei - The Rebel in the Garden
2014/11/04 - Arashiyama and nearby sights
2014/11/03 - The less visited sites of Nara
2014/11/03 - The gems of Matsue
2014/10/31 - Agon-shu Monastery
2014/10/30 - In the footsteps of the Shogun
2014/10/30 - Tale of the Genji