Shimonoseki (‰ºŠÖ) is a city in Yamaguchi Prefecture at the westernmost tip of Japan's largest island, Honshu. The 650 meter wide Kanmon Strait, a very busy sea lane, separates the city from the island of Kyushu. As the gateway to Kyushu, Shimonoseki has long been a major transportation hub, although the construction of bridges and tunnels across the strait has diminished the city's position somewhat.
Surrounded by water on three sides, Shimonoseki is naturally known for its seafood. Most famous is pufferfish, or fuku as it is locally known. Large numbers of pufferfish pass through the local fish markets everyday and are enjoyed by diners at restaurants across the city.
Cannons below the Kanmon Bridge commemorate the 1864 bombardment of Shimonoseki
The Kanmon Strait was the site of two famous battles. In the late 12th century, the deciding battle during the Genpei War - considered Japan's first large-scale civil war - between the Minamoto and Taira samurai families took place at Dannoura in Shimonoseki. The Battle of Dannoura was fought at sea and ended with the Minamoto defeating the Taira and establishing a new government in Kamakura.
Seven centuries later, Shimonoseki was controlled by the Choshu Clan, which played a key role in overthrowing the Tokugawa shogunate in the Meiji Restoration. In the lead-up to the Meiji Restoration, the Choshu forces, infuriated by the inroads made by the Western imperialists and the shogunate's inability to stop them, repeatedly attacked Western ships in the Kanmon Strait, which led to the bombardment of Shimonoseki by Western powers in 1864.
City center
Central Shimonoseki is located near the tip of Honshu and offers a number of attractions, including a pleasant waterfront area with a fish market and an aquarium:
Karato Market•
Hours: 5:00 to 15:00 (from 8:00 on Sundays and national holidays) Closed: No closing days Admission: Free
Karato Market is a local fish market specializing in pufferfish amongst other types of fish. The market is located in a large warehouse at the eastern end of the waterfront area. The auction space, the stalls of the intermediate wholesalers and the shops of small business fishmongers as well as green grocers can all be found on the hall's ground floor. Some restaurants are located on the second floor.
Kaikyokan Aquarium
Hours: 9:30 to 17:30 (entry until 17:00) Closed: No closing days Admission: 2090 yen
The Kaikyokan Aquarium is an aquarium in Shimonoseki that has about 500 species of fish, including over 100 varieties of pufferfish from all around the world. While the main focus is on marine life found in the Kanmon Strait, the aquarium also has penguins, dolphins and sea lions. Kaikyokan is one of the better aquaria in Japan, and the penguin enclosure is particularly delightful.
European-style buildings
Former British Consulate Building: Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 Closed: No closing days Admission: Free
A few European-style buildings from the Meiji Period (1868-1912) can be found along the waterfront, serving as a reminder of the former importance of Shimonoseki as a trade hub. Of note are the Former British Consulate Building, which is open to tourists, the Former Akita Commerce Building and the Shimonoseki Nabecho Post Office which still operates as a one of Japan's oldest post offices.
Kaikyo Yume Tower
Hours: 9:30 to 21:30 (entry until 21:00) Closed: Fourth Saturday in January Admission: 600 yen
The Kaikyo Yume Tower is a 153 meter tall tower a ten minute walk from Shimonoseki Station. The observatory on the top floor stands at 143 meters and provides panoramic views of the surroundings. The tower is also illuminated in the evenings.
Akama Shrine
Hours: Always open (treasure hall: 9:00 to 16:30) Admission: Free (100 yen for treasure hall)
Akama Shrine is a Shinto shrine overlooking the Kanmon Strait. It is dedicated to the spirit of child Emperor Antoku who perished in the 12th century Battle of Dannoura, which took place not far from the shrine. At the entrance of the shrine stands the prominent Suitenmon gate which carries a vermilion roof on top of a white arch foundation.
Shunpanro Hall (Sino-Japanese Peace Memorial Hall)
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 Closed: No closing days Admission: Free
Shunpanro is a hotel and restaurant next to Akama Shrine, looking over the Kanmon Strait and with a history dating back to the Edo Period (1603-1868). In 1895, the hotel's Shunpanro Hall served as the site where delegates from Japan and China met to sign the Treaty of Shimonoseki and end the First Sino-Japanese War.
Kanmon Bridge and surroundings
The Kanmon Bridge is one of the major attractions in Shimonoseki. The suspension bridge has a length of 1068 meters and six car lanes, connecting Honshu to Kyushu across the strait. There are a few sites of interest around the bridge:
Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel
Hours: 6:00 to 22:00 Closed: No closing days Admission: Free for pedestrians, 20 yen for bicycles and mopeds
The Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel is a 780 meter long undersea tunnel connecting the city of Shimonoseki on Honshu to Moji Port on the island of Kyushu. In order to access the tunnel, visitors have to take an elevator to a depth of around 50-60 meters. The prefectural border between Yamaguchi and Fukuoka is marked along the way.
Battle Monuments
Hours: Always open Closed: No closing days Admission: Free
Two battle monuments line the waterfront at Mimosusogawa Park which also affords great views of the Kanmon Bridge. The first is a row of replica Choshu cannons that point towards the Kanmon Strait, a reminder of the battles fought in 1864 against the Western powers. The other monument consists of two statues depicting the leaders of the Minamoto and Taira clans in their clash at the Battle of Dannoura during the Genpei War. The park lies across the street from the entrance to the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel.
Hinoyama Park
Ropeway: Hours: 10:00 to 17:00 Closed: Tuesdays, Wednesdays and from late November to mid March Fare: 310 yen (one way) or 520 yen (round trip)
Hinoyama Park is a park at the top of Mount Hinoyama, overlooking the Kanmon Strait. A ropeway leads from near the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel entrance to the park where an observation deck allows visitors to enjoy panoramic views of Shimonoseki and Moji across the strait as well as of the nearby mountain ranges. Those visiting by car can also drive up the mountain.
Chofu Town
Chofu is now a district of Shimonoseki City, located about eight kilometers inland from the city center. It is the site of a former castle town of the Mori Clan. The castle was destroyed in 1615 because of a law that allowed only one castle per feudal domain; however some other historical sites are surviving to this date:
Chofu Mori Residence
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:40) Closed: December 28 to January 4 Admission: 210 yen
The Chofu Mori Residence (Chōfu Mōri-tei) was constructed by the last Mori lord and completed in 1903, more than 30 years after the end of the feudal era. It was used as a private residence for the next 16 years and also hosted Emperor Meiji on his way to Kumamoto. The room where the emperor stayed can still be seen by visitors today.
Kozanji Temple
Kozanji Temple, not far from the Mori Residence, is a one of the oldest temples constructed in the Zen-style in Japan and is designated a national treasure. The temple is a popular autumn color viewing spot in Shimonoseki.
Iminomiya Shrine
Iminomiya Shrine is a shrine in the center of the former castle town. It has a long history and was even mentioned in the Nihon Shoki, one of the two oldest written historical records of Japan. Nearby stands Nogi Shrine which is dedicated to the local General Nogi who played a vital role in defeating Russia in the Russo-Japanese War.
Chofu Garden
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:30) Closed: December 28 to January 4 Admission: 210 yen
Chofu Garden (Chōfu Teien) is a pleasant Japanese garden that used to serve as the residence of a high ranking official. The central pond is surrounded by several historical buildings. A variety of flowers are planted in the garden and provide seasonal views through the year.
Getting there and around
How to get to Shimonoseki
By train from Tokyo/Osaka
Shimonoseki (Shin-Shimonoseki Station), Osaka (Shin-Osaka Station) and Tokyo are connected with each other by the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen. A transfer at Shin-Yamaguchi or Tokuyama to a Kodama train is typically required. The one way journey takes around 5 hours and 21,000 yen from Tokyo, or around 2.5 hours and 14,000 yen from Osaka. Japan Rail Pass holders need to pay a supplement if using the Nozomi, the fastest train category.
By air from Tokyo
JAL, ANA and Starflyer operate several flights per day between Tokyo's Haneda Airport and Yamaguchi-Ube Airport and/or Kitakyushu Airport. Flight duration is about 100 minutes. The regular one way fare is around 40,000 yen, but discount tickets are typically available for 11,000 to 21,000 yen. Airport buses connect Shimonoseki Station to Yamaguchi-Ube Airport (80 minutes, 3000 yen one way) and Kitakyushu Airport (70 minutes, 1000 yen one way).
From Kitakyushu
The one way trip from Kokura Station in Kitakyushu to Shimonoseki by local train takes around 15 minutes and costs 280 yen.
From Fukuoka
A shinkansen ride from Fukuoka (Hakata Station) to Shin-Shimonoseki Station takes 25 minutes and costs around 3500-4000 yen. From Shin-Shimonoseki Station, it is another ten minute local train ride to Shimonoseki Station.
Alternatively, it is possible to travel by train with a transfer at Kokura Station. If using a shinkansen between Hakata and Kokura, the one way journey takes around 45 minutes and costs about 2500 yen (in case of non-reserved seats). If using a limited express, the journey takes around one hour and costs about 2000 yen one way. And if the journey is done entirely by local trains, it takes around 100 minutes and costs 1500 yen one way.
How to get around Shimonoseki
Shimonoseki has two main train stations: Shimonoseki Station in the city center, which is served by local trains, and Shin-Shimonoseki Station, which is served by Kodama trains along the Sanyo Shinkansen. Shin-Shimonoseki Station can be reached in a 10 minute ride from Shimonoseki Station by local train.
Good walkers can explore the sights in city center on foot. The aquarium and market are about two kilometers from Shimonoseki Station, while the Kanmon Bridge is about four kilometers away. Alternatively, there is a network of city buses. Rental bicycles are available from Shimonoseki Station for around 500 yen per day.
The Chofu former castle town is located about eight kilometers from Shimonoseki Station. Note that Chofu's sites of interest are not located close to Chofu Station, and that they are better accessed by bus to Jōkamachi Chōfu (鉺’¬’·•{) from either Shimonoseki Station (25 minutes, 390 yen one way) or Shin-Shimonoseki Station (15 minutes, 320 yen one way).
