2013/01/02 - Tokyo New Year Report
Sensoji
A very Happy New Year to all. Wishing everybody a 2013 blessed with health and happiness.
Another exciting year begins here at japan-guide. You might have already noticed, but we have marked the start to this year with a new layout for our website. Here's to more good times of sharing about Japan together.
My first entry this year is about my trip to Tokyo today. Traditionally, the capital is much less crowded than usual over the New Year holidays, as many Tokyoites return to their hometowns to celebrate. Stores and attractions may be closed over the period for a varying number of days, although it is an increasing trend that large stores open even on January 1.
Arriving at Ikebukuro before 9am, I immediately noticed significantly less packed trains, despite it being what would be the usual rush hour. Hundreds were queuing up outside the multiple entrances of Tobu department store, waiting to enter and take part in its New Year sales. January 2, I heard, is a great day for shoppers as stores offer good bargains to kick off the year.
Outside Tobu department store
An empty-looking subway car
January 2 is also special because it is only one out of two days in a year that the inner grounds of the Tokyo Imperial Palace are open to the public. I found myself outside the palace's moats before its opening time at 9:30, but there were already thousands queuing up before me. The queue was however as usual orderly, efficient and smooth. It took about an hour before I arrived in front of the podium, where the emperor makes several appearances on this day. Waiting amongst the excited masses, I felt anticipation built up as time ticked towards the scheduled appearance; then, his majesty graced with his presence, to an eruption of cheers and a sea of fluttering rising suns.
Queues at the Imperial Palace
Staff were handing out flags
To the Imperial Palace!
Sea of waving flags
The Emperor and members of the Imperial Family
The Emperor making a short speech
Imperial Household Agency building
While scores of the working population in dark suits seemed to have disappeared from the city on this day, those that remained seemed to have transformed into the shopping population, as jovial crowds hit the streets at Harajuku and Omotesando. Most stores have already reopened, starting the year with sales. Fukubukuro (fortune/lucky bags) were offered by many merchants. These are goods packaged together and sold at a huge discount off their usual individual prices.
Shoppers were out in numbers
Only a few shops remain closed
Takeshita Shopping Street
Fukubukuro
Hatsumode is one's first visit to a shrine or temple in the year. My hatsumode this year was to Meiji Shrine, said to be the most visited shrine over the New Year period in all of Japan. Judging by the number of fellow visitors, it is definitely no exaggeration when they say about three million people visit this shrine on the first three days of each year. Everybody was in good spirits, and there was a lot of activity going on besides the usual prayers: people were drawing fortune lots, writing their wishes on wooden tablets (ema) and purchasing lucky arrows.
Entering Meiji Jingu (Meiji Shrine)
Signboards were held up to regulate crowd traffic
Lots of coins as offering at Meiji Shrine
A child getting ready to make her offering
Ladies in traditional wear
Ema: someone wishes to enter a school of choice, another wishes to become an idol
Drawing a fortune lot
I made my way to Ginza next, known to many as the most upmarket shopping area in Tokyo. There was a lot of shopping activity going on here too, as huge department stores and other retailers were holding sales of their own. Like at Harajuku, most of the shops have reopened, although some have slightly shorter than usual operating hours today. Almost every retailer offered some kind of fukubukuro - even a fast food restaurant had one with fast food coupons and some merchandize.
Ginza
Shopping crowd
Shopping crowd 2
Sales at department stores
Streets of Ginza
Streets of Ginza 2
Sensoji Temple at Asakusa is also a popular destination for hatsumode. I heard that since the opening of the Tokyo Skytree last year, more have turned up this year after sunset because they can view the illuminated Skytree as well. I thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere at Sensoji today: the buzz at the Nakamise Shopping Street, the festive lighting, and the enjoyment of observing what others were doing at the temple grounds.
Nakamise Shopping Street
Sensoji Temple
Tokyo Skytree
Showering with incense smoke for purification
Entering the main hall
Daruma Dolls for making wishes
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