Hidden Nachi Falls
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January 4, 2014 - Hidden Nachi Falls
Always wanting to see the highest waterfall of Japan (Nachi-no-Yaki), I boarded the train in Osaka in the early morning to arrive at noon in the very small town of Katsuura. Wanting to go all the way I started my walk at Daimonzaka, a path flanked by huge cedar trees. Some were so impressive that the climb towards the Nachi shrine took me twice as long as I stopped regularly to take photographs. At the shrine, there was the expected crowd to greet the New Year. I skipped most of the shrine to look for the best spot to take a picture of the Seigantoji pagoda with the huge Nachi-no-Taki in the background.
While the sight of Nachi-no-Taki was impressive, it was difficult to dream away with the crowd visiting the shrine. So I decided to go and look for 2 hidden waterfalls further up the mountain. Not knowing the exact way, I just took the steepest path somewhere hidden between 2 shrines. No one in sight, I was followed immediately by an elderly couple who engaged me in a conversation. They were locals and pointed me to the correct way: I should take a right just before reaching an abandoned park at the top of the mountain. ......I reached the top of the mountain without problems, but I somehow skipped the turn to the right. Taking my time to take pictures of the beautifully overgrown playground, I was caught up by the elderly couple who send me back in the opposite direction. I found the arrows pointing me to the waterfalls, but they pointed to a path that wasn't very clear to begin with. With time, the path only became more invisible, and I knew I was lost after not seeing any arrows anymore for half an hour. When I finally heard water streaming, I realized I had entered sacred ground of the shrine and walked back in a circle to arrive at the back of the Nachi shrine. Looking at waterfall pictures on the internet, I truly regret not having persevered, but the 3 hour mountain walk was a true revelation and well worth the time.
The next day I was planning to visit Onigajo in Kumano followed by a short hike along the Matsumoto-pass. Onigajo was impressive, but spoiled by a bus of fellow tourists. They also prevented me to jump the fence to the more impressive staircases in the coastline rock formation. I wouldn't be the only one to do that, seeing the fishermen at places otherwise unreachable.
Planning to trace my way back to the start of the Matsumoto pass, I instead took the steep staircases to the "remains of Onigajo". Not having read about it in any guide, I did not expect too much. Indeed, these were no ruins, but just a park located at the top of the mountain. A beautiful view over the bay, a proud feeling of being alone in this part of nature AND a shortcut to the Matsumoto-pass were my part. Walking through dense forest, my bad mood caused by the bus of tourists disappeared quickly. The shortcut to the Matsumoto pass was a way better option than taking the highway, however as I arrived in the middle of the pass, I decided to walk back to start and do the complete pass on one strike. Beautiful staircases, old trees and feeling I was shot back in time were my part.
After completing the Matsumoto pass I walked through the small and uneventful center of Kumano city. Not seeing anything of interest I walked along the highway towards Shishi-iwa, a rock formation in the shape of a lion - or so they say. To me, it looked more like a predator bird, but the formation is impressive nontheless. It is just such a shame that they build a highway passing in a range of 10 meters... I was expecting a lot about the Hana-no-Iwaya, a shrine declared world heritage, but it was a huge disappointed. With the size of a small Japanese apartment, one big rope spanned between a tree branch and a stone rock and a noisy highway running next to it, this place had nothing to offer. A bit disappointed I waited for 45 minutes on the next train.
I got off at Matsusaka station in the hope to find some interesting manholes to get rid off the bad aftertaste Hana-no-Iwaya gave me, and look, there was this very fun manhole which turned the balance again in a positive way!
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List of Posts:
2017/03/11 - Reversible Destiny at Yoro & Ogaki 2017/01/28 - Miyama - Kabuki-no-Sato - 2016/11/26 - Yatsubuchi-no-Taki 2016/11/23 - Takeda Castle Ruins 2016/11/19 - Menfudo Limestone Cave 2016/07/31 - Wagashi in Kyoto 2016/07/23 - Norikura Heights 2016/07/01 - Hakodate 2016/06/30 - Onuma Park 2016/06/29 - Exploring part of the Shikotsu-Toya National Park 2016/06/28 - To central Hokkaido 2016/06/27 - Historic Village of Hokkaido 2016/02/03 - Himeji: the real castle and the fake one 2015/09/25 - Izu Peninsula: Atami, Shimoda & Cape Irozaki 2015/07/23 - Sendai 2015/07/22 - Mount Zao 2015/07/21 - Matsushima 2015/05/30 - Climbing Mount Iwawaki 2015/03/22 - Beppu 2015/03/21 - Kunisaki Peninsula 2015/03/20 - Takachiho 2015/03/19 - Kumamoto 2015/01/12 - Satsukiyama - Minoh hike 2014/11/01 - Aizu-Wakamatsu 2014/10/31 - Sadogashima 2014/10/30 - Kurobe Gorge 2014/01/25 - Fushimi Inari hike 2014/01/04 - Hidden Nachi Falls |
