1) Question Is it too tight - my first 5 days?Preferred travel pace widely differs between different people. I do not consider your first 5 days tight. Fast travelers may even find it slightly slow, while very slow travelers might feel slightly stressed.
2) Question :will it be more interesting to sleep in Osaka (day 5) - I guess that my first night on the 26-Sep I will be very tried and cannot enjoy Osaka night life.This is a personal question. I would rather want to stay in Nara (so that I don't need to travel anymore after sightseeing) or Kyoto (to reduce moving hotels) on day 5. But if you have a particular interest in Osaka's nightlife, then by all means incorporate a night there.
3) Question what sights in Kyoto I should reserveThose that look interesting to you. Note that only the imperial sights and the Moss Temple require reservations:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2158.html4) Question I ask for plan for Kyoto and side trip for 4 daysI recommend to do some research on Kyoto's sights and side trips (see link above) and then visit the ones you are interested in. I would not even decided what to see when, but just flexibly visit the sights according to mood and weather.
If you don't want to do research, you could also look into guided tours.
6) Question Is it a nice trip to Noto Peninsula - so I can stay 1 more day in Kanazawa and vist the area?It is a minor, isolated destination that is difficult to navigate without a rental car. Some people will find it very interesting because it is rural and isolated. But I would not recommend it to a first-time visitor.
7)Question what is the best way to travel this roth?Kanazawa - (bus) - Takayama - (bus) - Okuhida
- (bus) - Matsumoto
From Matsumoto, there are various options. Most lead via Tokyo:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6053.htmlhttp://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3805.htmlBut the fastest route leads via Nagano and Omiya. Due to its high cost, I recommend it only to Japan Rail Pass holders or travelers with a large budget.
8) Question Will I have option to see some of Nikko or I will came by the evening?Even if you select the fastest and most expensive connections, you won't arrive in Nikko until the late afternoon and won't be able to see much.
10-Oct Day 16 Nikko + National park + Mashiko
9) Question Can I do it all in one day?No, it is too much.
Question May I travel Nikko a beat latter (by the end of my trip) to see the fall (at list some of it....).By visiting a little later, you increase your chance of colors, and you would get rid of that horrible travel day from Okuhida to Nikko. I think it is worth considering, although in the usual year, around October 10 should already come with some colors. In any case, I recommend to avoid weekends for your visit to Nikko.
11) Question I Can not decide whether to book for Hakone for 2 days as I understand that it it can be cloudy and i will not see Mount Fuji or to do a day trip from Tokyo but then I cannot enjoy all what this place has to offer?Never count on Mount Fuji from Hakone. Even on fair days you might not see it. I have a success rate of around 15% despite the fact that I often targeted days with good weather.
If the view of the mountain is important to you, you can considerably increase your chances of seeing it by visiting the Fuji Five Lake region instead of Hakone, although even there the mountain is often hidden:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6900.html