where is the best to stay in Ryokan?

Dear Japan-friends!

Me and my boyfriend are planning our 2,5 weeks vacation in Japan. We plan to visit Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima and maybe aswell Nagasaki. Of course we would like to try the ryokan experience. The best would be a ryokan where we can find also a nice, not much touristic onsem. Can you advice us some good place?
Thanks a lot in advance!!

Kyoto has many good ryokan but without onsen bath. Onsen resorts are by definition tourisic. Some easily accessible ones along or not far off your route include Hakone, Kusatsu and Arima.

One option to consider during your trip would be to stay the night on Miyajima, just outside Hiroshima. It is not famous for being an onsen location but the Ryokan Iwaso is beautiful and has very nice outdoor baths (onsen, not just hot water) along the stream. Miyajima is very touristy as it is very beautiful, but in the evening after the tourists have left it is totally peaceful and the huge shrine & torii gate are lit up at night.

Iwaso is pricey but very foreigner-friendly. If you go, ask for one of the old rooms, they are more distinctive than the new ones.

Iwaso website:
http://www.iwaso.com/e_introduction.html
and you can also book through www.japaneseguesthouses.com

Can we go to the onsen at iwaso without staying there?

Dear Uji and Spendthrift. Thanks a lot for take your time and give some hints. All places you recommend look awesome. I haven't even arrived yet to Japan but already planning the second trip to catch up with all places we won't have time to see :).