Kyoto: Starting to Change

So far, our reports this season have been from rural areas as the autumn colors crept southwards towards Japan's major cities, most recently from Raina's visit to the Fuji Five Lakes. Today however, I found myself in Kyoto to check in on a few of the city's best known leaf viewing spots.

Here the foliage tends to reach its peak from the second half of November, however this year's colors are a little later than average and will likely be at their best from late November into early December.

To be sure, this was visibly some way off at all four of the temples I visited, although some very attractive gradations of green and yellow, together with the occasional splash of red are already creating some nice scenes.

My first stop was at Tofukuji, a Zen temple complex in the southeast of the city, especially celebrated for a particular view over a valley thick with maple trees. While some colorful branches are already creating an autumnal impression - especially when seen from afar - things were still looking very green from closer up.

Exploring the seasonal paid area that includes the Tsutenkyo Bridge and the valley garden, I found a few vibrant red branches in isolation, but under the valley's leafy canopy most trees were still looking very green and it will be at least a few more days before things get really underway.

My second visit was to Kiyomizudera, located about two kilometers to the northeast where it overlooks the city from its perch on the slopes of Mount Otawa. Here again I saw a few patches of color - especially at the foot of the temple's famous wooden stage, which is often said to be the first to change - but overall things seemed to be at quite an early stage.

The temple is well known for its illuminations during the autumn season, which this year will run from November 22 to December 7, 17:30 to 21:30 (last entry at 21:00), price 500 yen.

A ten-minute walk along crowded streets brought me to Kodaiji, another Zen Buddhist temple known for its historic buildings and manicured grounds. Despite being the second northernmost spot on my list, it sits within a depression and is partially shielded from the elements by tall trees, usually causing it to change a little later and with softer tones.

Here I saw just a few isolated splashes of color, with most of the foliage within the garden and on the hillside still looking entirely green. As an additional note, the temple's kyakuden or guest hall is currently closed for renovation and is set to reopen in March of 2026, although this has only a minor impact when visiting.

Kodaiji's own autumn illuminations will continue from October 24 until December 14, 17:00 to 22:00 (entry until 21:30) and are priced at 600 yen.

My last and most colorful stop in Kyoto was at Eikando, another beautiful temple complex in the northeastern part of the city. While still looking quite early in the season towards the entrance and in more sheltered spots, the area surrounding the temple's Hojo Pond was already sporting some vivid red colors, further enhanced by their reflection in the water.

Autumn illuminations at Eikando will run from November 15 to December 10, 17:30 until 21:00 (last entry at 20:30) and cost 700 yen.